The V.I.P. Table

This ain't yo' Mama's Zinfandel

2012-01-21T11:24:00.000-05:00

Image Borrowed from Zazzle.com

Do you drink Zinfandel? You really should. One of the first horror stories I learned in wine was about “White Zinfandel,” the insipid pink stuff that’s sipped at weddings, pools and underage parties around the world. Yet it’s utterly amazing how much people hate the stuff. Unfortunately, that same hated for White Zin has forever left its mark on the word “Zinfandel”. Literally to the point that when you recommend a Zinfandel to someone, you feel obligated to explain that it’s a “red” Zinfandel—not white.

So why should you drink Zinfandel? Besides the fact that it’s an excellent value, with good bottles in nearly every price range, it’s also because the absolute best examples will only run you into the $35-$50 range. There’s also the fact that Zinfandel comes in many styles, from rich and sultry party-in-a-bottle versions to examples that are lean and focused, and excellent with food. Ridge is a producer that immediately comes to mind, and it’s easy to become lost in their large mix of great Zins. However, once in a while a new producer comes along that turns my head, and that’s exactly what happened with Talty Vineyards.

What truly sets Talty Zinfandel apart from the rest is its massive amount of rich layered fruit and spice balanced against earthy and floral notes with impeccable balance and juicy acidity. Sounds great, right? It’s even better in person.

Talty vineyards are located in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley, an area truly suited to creating amazing Zins. The Talty family prides itself in creating handcrafted wines (from the “vine to the wine” as they put it). The Estate Zinfandel comes from their own six-acre vineyard, whereas the Filice Connolly is from Napa Valley. It’s hard to choose between these two bottlings. In the end, it was the ’06 Filice Connolly that truly stole my heart. It’s simply a great Zinfandel at its peak. However, they are all worth your consideration.

On to the notes:

2005 William Talty Estate Zinfandel Dry Creek – The nose was beautifully expressive with intense mixed berries, floral and stem notes, pepper, leather and sweet red candies. On the palate, it was big yet juicy with mixed berry jam and spice in a balanced and finessed expression of Zinfandel. The long staying finish remained fresh and highly enjoyable. (91 points)

2007 William Talty Estate Zinfandel Dry Creek – The nose was intense and expressive with toasty almond, sweet spices, blackberry jam, raisins and a sour cream note that added a savory balance to all the sweetness. On the palate, it was smooth as silk yet juicy with black cherry, spices and dark chocolate. It was remarkably balanced throughout and finished long, yet clean. (93 Points)

2008 William Talty Estate Zinfandel Dry Creek – The nose was more restrained than the ’05 and ’07, yet still highly enjoyable with blackberry, floral notes and black pepper. On the palate, it was juicy with red berries, black currant, spicy vanillin, and herbs. The finish was palate-coating, yet fresh with notes of sour red berries. (90 points)

The Filice Connolly Vineyard Zinfandel, Napa Valley

2006 William Talty Napa Filice Connolly Vineyards – The nose showed perfumed red fruits, animal musk, a hint of cotton candy and sweet spices. On the palate, it was big and dark with a massive wave of rich berries and sweet spices in a balanced and remarkably fresh expression. The finish was palate-coating, yet fresh. This is simply a great Zinfandel entering its peak drinking window. (94 points)

2008 William Talty Napa Filice Connolly Vineyards – The nose showed mixed berries, floral perfumes, minerals and earthy stones. On the palate, it was smooth yet juicy with intense red and black fruits, brown sugar and earthy black pepper. The finish was long and fresh. (92 points)

Talty Vineyards Website!

A big thank you of Greg dal Piaz of Snooth for introducing me to Talty Vineyards.

Castello di Monsanto: Nemo

2012-01-13T21:14:00.000-05:00

A Great Tuscan Cabernet Sauvignon That You've Probably Never Heard Of

Castello di Monsanto may be best known for their Chianti Classico Riserva and Riserva Il Poggio, but what you seldom hear about is the 100% varietal Cabernet Sauvignon, Nemo. Tuscan cabernet has been all the craze in the Maremma and Bolgieri, yet there are a number of producers from Chianti (Isole e Olena and Felsina come to mind) that excel with the varietal. For me, it all started five years ago, when a 1990 Castello di Monsanto Nemo was served to me and changed the way I looked at international varietals in Italy. To say that this wine tastes like Cabernet simply doesn't do it justice. This bottle is Tuscan through and through, and if you haven't experienced it first hand, you're doing yourself an injustice.

Nemo comes from a single vineyard, Il Mulino, on the Castello di Monsanto estate. It's then fermented with natural yeasts and spends 25 days in contact with the skins. The oak regiment could be called "International," with 18 months spent in new oak barrique. However, upon tasting this wine, the last thing you will think of is “International.” With only a few years in bottle, the new oak recedes to reveal an intense display of fruit, spice, herbs and earth, with the potential to mature into something even greater.

I'd say the only negative thing about Nemo is how hard it is to find. However, with Wine-Searcher on our side or by requesting the wine from your local retailer, maybe we can change that. At an average of $45 a bottle, this unique, pure Italian beauty, certianly deserves the attention.

2003 Castello di Monsanto Nemo Toscana - The nose was deep and engaging with rich black cherry sauce, balanced by floral notes, cedar, earth and floral undergrowth. On the palate, it was enveloping as a mix of raspberry and blueberry with baking spices, cedar and minerals engaged the sense and traversed a fine line between rich and juicy. The finish was long with cinnamon spice and bittersweet dark berries flowed by the slightest hint of tannin. In the end, the 2003 Nemo came across and perfectly balanced and a joy to drink. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Flour + Egg yolk + water + salt = Tajarin

2012-01-10T20:52:00.000-05:00

After a short and very much needed break, following the Holiday season; Updates will continue at The V.I.P. Table this Friday. Until then, please check out my most recent piece published at What's Cookin'.

Tajarin with Porcini Mushrooms
A perfect pairing for Paumanok Chenin Blanc

I remember learning about beurre blanc, a classic French sauce made primarily from butter. As I tasted it, all of my senses swooned. How could something this good be so bad for you?

We are taught to stay away from many foods these days. Some I agree with, such as trans-fats and high fructose corn syrup. However, I think it's more important to practice the good things in life in moderation. A sauce made primarily of whole butter may not be something you should eat every day, but if you deny yourself the indulgence every few weeks or once a month, you simply aren't living.

This brings me to my recipe for Tajarin... Keep reading at What's Cookin'

And the wine:

2011 Paumanok Chenin Blanc - The nose shows lemon and light peach with slate, earth and minerals. On the palate, it is fresh and spritzy, with citrus and crushed stone. The finish is mouth watering, with salty minerals and lemony fruits. It is a highly enjoyable Chenin that was pleasing to both my American and French guests alike. (92 points)

Visit the Paumanok website. Or find it with: Wine-Searcher!

Year in Review: Top 10 wines of 2011

2011-12-26T12:17:00.000-05:00

It’s that time again. 2011 is coming to a close, and the holidays are in full swing. I’m sorting through recipes for ChristmasEve, Christmas parties and New Year’s bashes. However, before I get too deep into things, I love to look back over thepast year and my 500+ tasting notes for my top ten wines. This isn’t a list that’s built throughpoliticking or overthinking the subject. Instead, these are my favorite ten wines of the year in threecategories; mid-priced gems, top shelf wines and vintages wines. You may notice that I don’t have a value winesection, but that’s because my article “Give the gift of wine for Christmas”spells out the best value wines I’ve had this year.

Looking over this list, I’m not surprised to see such alarge representation made by Italian wines. Italian wine was my first love in life, and it continues to amaze me forboth quality and value. Nowhere else cansuch world-class wine be had for the relative value Italian wines represent. However, I’m also very happy to see winesfrom Germany, Spain and California.

Top Mid-priced Wines

Each of these bottles delivers the goods in spades, and ifyou compared how good they are, against how much they cost, then you’d see thateach of them is a relative value. Thisis the sweet spot where I find my most enjoyable drinking, because they performbeautifully, but won’t break the bank. Give one of these to your boss for Christmas or New Year’s, and therewould be no shame.

2006 Piaggia Carmignano Riserva - The nose showedripe black cherry, herbal fruit tea, leather, and dusty potpourri. On the palate, it was as soft as silk andflowed effortlessly across the senses. It was structured yet elegant with unmistakable Tuscan character andflavors of black cherry juice, mixed herbs and sweet spices. The finish lasted, showing red fruits withthe slightest bitter character. TheCarmignano Riserva walks the line between sex appeal and restraint, and theresult is something magical. Give it anhour to decant, and let this beauty dazzle you. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2007 Vietti Barbera d'Asti La Crena -The nose showedcrushed blackberry and plum, along with a hint of undergrowth and a dark toastynote. On the palate, a rich, velvetywave of dark fruits swept across the senses with bitter dark chocolate. Theintense fruit and zesty acidity cloaked this wine’s imposing structure, whichwas most noticeable on the long mouth-puckering finish. I am eager to see whatthis wine will mature into. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2009 Ridge Zinfandel Pagani Ranch - The nose wasmassive, as aromas of wild berries, dry coco, vanilla, ginger spice and savorynotes filled the senses. On the palate,it was medium to full-bodied with amazing focus to its intense red berry fruitand spice. The masses of fruit slowlygave way to show this wine’s structure and balance. The finish was long and clinging to thepalate, yet ultimately refreshing as the tannins faded away. I seriously enjoyed this structured Zinfandeland am very happy to have more in my cellar, as I can imagine that it will geteven better with time. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2009 Peter Lauer Ayler Kupp Riesling Senior Faß 6 -The nose showed lime, green apple, white flowers and wet rocks. It was simple yet perfectly enjoyable. However, on the palate, this wine came tolife, with rich and concentrated grapefruit, sweet lemon curd, which thenturned to acid, minerals and stone--but then went back to sweetness into thelong citrus finish. This wine kept meguessing what each new sip would reveal. It was amazingly fresh and enjoyable. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Top Shelf Wines

Sometimes the occasion calls for the best wines, and theones listed below are sure to please. These are wines that some may refer to as “collectable.” However, I prefer to call them highlydrinkable. These are bottles that willblow away the competition and leave no survivors. They may cost a pretty penny, but they’reworth every red cent.

2006 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio- The 2006 Il Poggio was Tuscany personified, as aromas of animal musk, spice,wild berries and forest notes wafted up from the glass. On the palate, this wine showed wild redberries and autumnal notes with a mouth-feel of pure silk. The finish was long in sour berry and spice.(94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2007 Arnaldo-Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni -On the nose, this wine was a monster with raspberry, holiday spices and darkforest notes. It verged on sweet, butsomething animal about this Sagrantino pulled it back to reality. On the palate, a massive wave ofconcentration was turned fresh by vibrant acidity, as blackberry jam,pomegranate, cinnamon and herbs washed across the tongue like silk. The finish showed this wine’s intimidatingstructure, as velvety tannin coated the mouth. The Arnaldo Caprai 25 Anni is highly enjoyable now and will likely ageinto something magical. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Tommaso Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella ClassicoTb - At first, the nose showed black cherries with dark chocolate andtobacco; however, as it opened up in the glass, aromas of herbs and seared meatin a buttery crust filled the nose. Itwas all at once a sweet and savory intoxicating bouquet. On the palate, it was full with a hint ofsweetness, as macerated cherry, rum raisin and Christmas spice lingered into along and pleasing finish. This may bemade in a rich and sweet style, but it still manages to glide effortlesslyacross the palate with perfect balance and a graceful finish. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Top Vintage Wines

If you’re anything like me, then it’s the older vintagewines that truly make cellaring wine worthwhile. Don’t get me wrong; I love young wines, butif there were a choice, I’d grab a 20+-year-old Barolo any day. These are all wines older than ten years thattruly made me stop and take notice in 2011.

1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda -This wine was everything I ever wanted in a glass of Barolo. It was sweet yet sour, earthy yet fruity andrich yet with razor-like focus. The noseshowed masses of ripe red berries with hot dried spices, gravelly moist earth,mushroom and hints of green stems. Onthe palate, this showed silky, sweet, ripe strawberry, yet it also had a savorywarmth, full of earth, menthol and leather strap on a beautifully structuredframe. It was amazing how young theCollina Rionda seemed as silky tannin washed across the palate and soothed meinto a long, seductive finish that begged for the next sip. (98 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1990 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Valbuena 5°- The 1990 Vega-Sicilia wowed me with its rich yet elegant personality. The nose showed cherry preserves andcranberry with hints of clove, vanilla and burnt sugar. However, with how rich and young the noseseemed, there was an underlying earthiness and hint of musky animal fur thattruly kept it interesting. On thepalate, it was elegant, with a velvety feel on the tongue as flavors of richred then black fruits and dusty spices assaulted the senses. The finish was long and turned from juicy tosour as the fruit faded away. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva - Thenose showed beautifully with ripe strawberry and potpourri; yet as the wine satin the glass, it turned darker and fuller with notes of candle wax, earth,mushrooms and moist fall leaves. On thepalate, this wine was eloquent and soft at first but turned more tannic intothe finish. The senses were wrapped withpenetrating black fruit, followed by minerals and a taste of older wood, whichgave it a bit of a rustic feel. Thefinish was laden with intense cranberry fruit, giving it a really nice sendoff. This wine is just starting to show itsage, yet still has many more years to go before its structure truly softens.(95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Tolani Revisited

2011-12-17T11:46:00.000-05:00

The Tolani Dining Room

I spend a lot of time eating, and I certainly live in theright city to do it. My desire toexplore and eat lands me in some of the best restaurants in NYC. However, it takes a moving experience to getme to sit down and write about it. Afterit happens, I usually move my critical eye elsewhere while spending futurevisits to each establishment indulging in the food, without having to thinkabout too much.

Rarely, does a restaurant inspire me to put my thoughts onpaper twice. Then there is Tolani. Somehow, with each visit, Tolani has managed to raise the bar again and again and again.

My most recent visit was no different. I headed out to Tolani to conduct a double blind2001 Barolo tasting. I knew the foodwould be good, but the last thing I expected was to be floored from thestart. The Butternut Squash soup was a pure dive into a sea of indulgence. It’s easiest to say that this soup managed tohit every pleasure meter of taste and smell impossible. It’s one of those dishes that walks the lineof sweet and savory and somehow lands perfectly between the two. It was sweet, smoky, creamy and utterlyseductive. The funniest part is that since I didn’t expect to be writing aboutfood on this visit, I don’t have a photo.

Fuyu Persimmon Salad

It was at this time that my camera was aimed at the platesas well as the wine. The soup wasfollowed by a Fuyu Persimmon Salad. If I had to explain what it is about Tolanithat truly wins my heart, it’s the inclusion of fruits in savory dishes and howthey balance salty, sweet and savory on almost every plate. The Persimmon Salad was no different, and itbenefitted from the addition of a crispy sweet pecan cracker, which added atextural kaleidoscope to the experience.

Pork Belly

Then came the PorkBelly, and everyone at the tableturned silent. One of the best parts oftasting menus is the ability to indulge in a dish like this, without beingtempted to devour an entire plateful. It’s certainly not a dish for the faint of heart, but when in ahedonistic state of mind, this is the dish that will settle your craving. It was pure salty, sweet, melt-in-your-mouthsatisfaction.

Rabbit Fricassee

The Rabbit Fricassee changedthe pace, but at a perfect point in the meal. I do not believe I have ever experienced a more perfectly-cooked pieceof rabbit in NYC before this night. Instead of the usual bursting-at-the-seams yet coloring-in-the-linesstyle of Tolani, this dish relied on Italian country-style, comfort foodprinciples and it did it well. Freshgnocchi, sweet yams, dried cherries and a perfectly-seasoned and flavored brothis all it took. Very nicely done.

Braised Short Ribs

Lastly, we have the BraisedShort Ribs, which is the only dish on this night that I had before atTolani. As usual, it was a hit, and thistime it was served with a pomegranate gastrique. A perfectly braised short rib that fallsapart on your fork, placed over a parsnip puree with the crunchy snap of tartpomegranate. Yum!

If you haven’t already experienced Tolani, now’s the time todo so. I honestly can’t imagine how theycan top my last two experiences, yet I have a feeling they’re up to thechallenge.

Tolani Wine Restaurant
410 Amsterdam Ave (btwn 79th and 80th)
New York, New York, 10024
212.873.6252

Tolani Wine Restaurant on What's Cookin'

2001 Piedmont Retrospective

2011-12-11T20:49:00.001-05:00

Barbaresco, Barolo and Castiglione Falletto
A classic vintage (part 1)

Wine of the Night

In the world of wine writing, there's always going to be somebody who's touting the next perfect vintage. However, what's unfortunate is that this praise is usually created to sell wine. What's more, the wines that are loved by the majority of today's critics, don't necessarily share anything in common with classic wines of the past, other than the name. How do we know that a 2007 Barolo will age into something similar to the great vintages of the past? We simply don’t. What we do know, is that the Nebbiolo grape possess the remarkable ability to age, and that even in “off” vintages or ripe vintages, the best producers can create good wine, that should age well.

My top three picks

2001 was not an “off” or ripe vintage. In fact, it was quite the opposite. To me, 2001 is a true classic vintage, which provided intense, structured wines with balanced acidity and the capacity to age for decades. Often grouped with great vintages like ’89 and ’96, most wines tasted from ‘01 show a level of refinement and balance, that you can actually sense the quality in the glass, even as your mouth is wrapped in tannin. In general, the aromatics are layered and truly stunning and the core of intense, pure fruit promises that these wines will last the test of time. With that said, we have now reached the 10 year mark for 2001, and they are right where you’d expect them to be in their evolution—young and full of potential.

The best part is it’s not too late to find many of these wines, as long as you take care to source them from reputable retailers.

Fight 1

Flight one consisted of two of the biggest names and three of the most esteemed vineyards in Barbaresco. This flight truly showed the benefits of tasting double blind, as we worked through the wines and formed our conclusions. A point of note is that the consensus of the group placed the Produttori Asili against the Giacosa Asili in a tie for third place wine-of-the-night (important to consider since the Produttori can be had for half the price). I also found the Giacosa Santo Stefano to be far more interesting than the majority at the table. The Asili came across as a little too earthy and with aromas that I don’t associate with great Barbaresco, however the Santo Stefano was simply classic to my palate.

Lastly, I was saddened by the performance of the Produttori Rabajà, since the last time I tasted it, I felt there was much more potential in the glass. In the end, the Giacosa Rabajà Riserva was my wine of the flight, as well as my wine of the night (and yes, this was all tasted double blind); it’s simply a great bottle of Barbaresco.

2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili – The nose showed dusty cherry and strawberry with notes of orange, rich mulling spices and the slightest whiff of old library books. On the palate, it showed silky black cherry fruit and minerals with vibrant acidity providing an airy lift. On the finish, notes of tart red fruit and mushrooms lingered through this wines tight, drying structure. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà – The nose was elegant and showed dark strawberry, floral stems and herbs with notes of tar, crack black pepper and moist earth. On the palate, it first showed soft, sweet red fruit and an earthy funk with tongue curling acidity, yet as it traveled across the palate, it seemed diluted and somehow hollow. The finish showed this wines structure with lingering notes of red fruit and earth. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano – The nose showed rich sweet raspberry and herbs but with time in the glass it turned to tart cherry, orange peel and the slightest hint of shoe polish. On the palate, it showed a solid core of cherry fruit, which was zesty with acidity, yet full in body. An impression of balance and focus struck me as I sipped this wine, which should mature into something magical. The finish was clean with dried cherry and fine tannins. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili – The nose showed earthy funk, black cherry, breadcrumbs, and hints of green vegetables. On the palate, I found black cherry fruit, floral notes and minerals in a soft and juicy style. The finish showed cranberry but was short and drying. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà – The nose showed deep, ripe strawberry fruit, crushed leaves, potpourri and sweet spices, yet bright and clean. On the palate, it showed elegant, ripe red fruits with beautiful structure and balance. The finish was long and structured. This wine showed so much balanced mix with intensity that it’s easy to imagine great things in its future. (97 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Flight 2

Flight two was painful. It was designed as a flight of wines that all came from the commune of Barolo. However, we weren’t aware of this information while tasting. The consensus of the Giuseppe Rinaldi was that it was a modern styled Barolo and one taster even felt that it was cooked. The intense aroma of acetone (or nail polish remover) made me think of VA. I decided to withhold a score until I can taste this wine again. Following that was a corked wine (which turned out to be Bartolo Mascarello). Then the last two wines, which were very similar on the nose and even convinced me that they might have been from the same producer. Again, from the performance on the nose, these wines came off as modern in style. In the end, it was Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Storico Liste that was my favorite wine of the flight.

2001 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste – The nose showed a whiff of initial heat, followed by rich cherry lollipop and notes of acetone. On the palate, it was almost port-like, without the sweetness with notes of black cherry fruit. The finish was rough with tannin and almost sticky. One taster thought this was cooked, however, I felt it suffered from VA. Either way I’ve reserved scoring the wine, as it may have been faulty. (N/A) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo – Corked (N/A)

2001 E. Pira and Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Cannubi – The nose showed sweet red and black fruits with floral, menthol notes and a hint of black truffles. On the palate, it was big, rich and palate staining on entry, yet a wave of acidity on the mid-palate gave the impression of focused, airy red fruits. The finish was woody with drying tannin. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Giacomo Borgogno and Figli Barolo Storico Liste – The nose showed tart cherry, medicinal herbs, menthol and tobacco leaf. On the palate, it showed sweet, soft strawberry fruit with a balance of structure and acidity that kept it focused and fresh. The long finish was laden with spicy red fruit. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Flight 3

Flight three was a perfect way to end the evening. For one thing, it turned up the 2^nd place wine-of-the-night with the Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe. But what’s more, the entire Cavallotto lineup was a pleasure to drink (I had my issues with the Riserva Vignolo, but no one else seemed to mind it so much). What was a let down was the performance from the Monprivato. Call it backward or say that they never perform well in their youth. I think we’ve all heard the excuses made for this wine when young and I will be very happy if my bottles mature into something wonderful. However, at the moment, it comes across as out-of-balance and shows vegetal notes that I don’t find attractive. The Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe was my wine of the flight and the Cavallotto Bricco Boschis was no slouch either. These are great wines, especially for the money.

2001 Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis – The nose on the Cavallotto Bricco Boschis showed bright cherry, sweet spices, roses and hard candy. As it sat in the glass an aroma of espagnole joined the bouquet and added masses of complexity. On the palate, it was juicy and rich yet balanced, showing sweet red fruit mixed with baking spices. The finish was long and concentrated, showing dark chocolate and black cherry. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo – The nose showed ripe red fruits with minerals, a hint of rust and a sweaty note that detracted greatly from the experience. On the palate, I found silky sweet cherry, and a dusting of dark chocolate, which turned lean on the mid-palate and stayed through the finish with dried red fruits and rough tannin. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe – The nose showed deep, rich red fruits, poppy and menthol with a zesty, almost tropical note of tangerine. On the palate, it was velvety and rich with sweet, spiced red fruits. The finish was intense, structured and long. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato – The nose showed dark, almost dank strawberry fruit with minerals and a vegetal note. On the palate, it came across as round but missing focus with soft red fruits with a vegetal note. The finish showed dried out fruits and burnt sugar. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

The 2001 lineup. Served double blind.

Other 2001 Baroli tasted in 2011

2001 Elio Altare Barolo Vigneto Arborina - The Altare Arborina showed a classic Barolo nose of red fruits, plum skins, roses, tar, a hint of animal musk and undergrowth. The nose pulled me in and reminded me somehow of a childhood Autumn day with dried leaves and pine nestles. On the palate, it showed an elegant, full body, backed by a balance of tannin and acid. The fruit was rich but not over-ripe, with sweet spice and an airy, refreshing note of menthol. The finish was long with red fruits, tobacco and a hint of brown sugar. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Elio Grasso Barolo Rüncot - This wine was painfully young, but there was such potential in the glass, and after time in decanter, a glimpse of what it may become shined through. At first, the nose was full on oaky vanilla and even a hint of nail polish, but this faded over the course of three hours, and what remained was dark red fruit, a dusting of brown sugar, and menthol. On the palate, I found an elegant and more feminine structure than expected with lush cherry fruit, herbs and cinnamon. The long finish showed fine silky tannin that left my palate dry but not fatigued. I’m very excited to think what this may be in another ten years. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Food, Wine, Restaurants--Oh My!

2011-12-03T08:02:00.001-05:00

My take on Pizzoccheri Valtellinesi

The holidays are now in full swing and with it, comes all the work involved in the wine and food industry. Today, I wanted to take a moment to post some links to my recent work off The V.I.P. Table, as well as a new page dedicated to Barolo, and a link to a new Blog that was created by a fellow Barolo lover who has great insights on some of the best Baroli coming out of Piedmont.

A Passion for the Valtellina
Passion is the key to great food. I don’t care whether you spent eight months in a diploma program or two years at the C.I.A., the best food comes from chefs who possess passion. I’ve worked alongside some highly trained individuals who will never do anything more than rehash the same repertoire throughout their entire careers. Why? Because they lack passion. A great chef is not built in school or the restaurant kitchen, he is made through decades of experiences... Keep reading at What's Cookin!

Masi Amarone and Risotto
I was recently on vacation with my wife. Together we sat under the stars, a small fire pit going in front of us and a glass of Amarone in hand. It was a wonderful moment in time that two working parents seldom get to enjoy. I spoke in utter contentment, “The stars are so beautiful.” My wife looked at me, and I looked at her, and she said, “I love… Amarone... Keep reading at Snooth!

Older Vintage Wine and Cellaring
I’m often asked, “Why should I cellar wine?” Now, we’re not talking about a well-stocked shelf of bottles to pull from or a Eurocave filled with your favorite juice. We’re talking about a wine cellar filled with vintages that are left to sit for years or decades in perfect, cool, moist, dark, vibration-free harmony. The answer is simple to me... Keep reading at Snooth!

The Barolo Pages
From the hills of the Langhe in Piedmont, Italy. Barolo truly is the King of Wines and the Wine of Kings. It is made from the Nebbiolo grape, which is also used to make Barbaresco, Gattinare and Ghemme in Piedmont, as well as in the Valtellina and Franciacorta regions of Lombardy. Often compared to red Burgundy and capable of aging for decades, its layered and deeply fragrant aromas make Barolo a wine that can be dwelled upon for hours... Keep reading at The Barolo Pages!

Nebbiolo Junkie
Nicolai Soegaard is a fellow Barolo enthusiast, whose insights and tastings, I've followed for many years now. Living in Copenhagen, Denmark and regularly traveling to Piedmont for tastings. Whether it's food or wine, Nicolai constantly has something new and interesting to share with fellow Nebbiolo lovers. Hence his new blog... Nebbiolo Junkie

Give the gift of wine for Christmas

2011-11-17T21:31:00.001-05:00

From $20 - $40 dollars, Ten bottles that make great gifts.

It's that time of year again. Christmas is bearing down on us quickly, and wouldn't it be great to give or receive a nice bottle of wine? However, the fact is that the wine you usually receive as a Christmas gift is typically horrible. All the good intentions in the world won't protect you from making a poor purchasing decision based on a retailer’s marketing. That stack of cases in the front of the store is not always the best place to pick a bottle to give away. And what impression does that leave on you when the bottle is opened and it performs horribly?

It doesn't need to be this way. An informed decision can make a world of difference; and so, I have gonethrough all of my notes of the last year to find some great bottles for giftgiving. Each wine listed belowwill deliver the goods in spades. I've also included Wine-Searcher links to help you find a retailer thatcarries the bottle. The firstthing to realize is that the average "Wine and Liquor" store is notthe place to buy your gifts. Unlessyou have a trusted retailer that stores their back stock properly and is moreconcerned with your satisfaction (than their bottom line), then I urge you toexpand your horizons and check out Wine-Searcher. I've also provided a list of some of thetrustworthiest retailers from my experiences. In the end, you can't go wrong by picking a bottle from thelist or giving a call to one of the retailers listed.

And so, on to the wines:

United States - This list below runs thegamut and is great for exploration.

From the North Fork of LongIsland, the Paumanok Merlot is agreat gift to show a wine lover just what the North Fork is capable ofproducing. It's a great bottle ofwine with a price tag that's easy to swallow.

2007 Paumanok Merlot (avg. $22)
Find it on Wine-Searcher!
Paumanok Website!

The Merryvale Cabernet is a crowd-pleaser, especially for those whothink that good wine can only come from Napa, but think that it needs to costan arm and a leg. This rich yetbalanced Napa Cabernet drinks better than most bottles that cost twice asmuch. It's a wine that provided mewith a pleasant surprise when I first tasted it, and I think you'll agree.

2006 Merryvale Cabernet Sauvignon Starmont (avg. $26)
Find it on Wine-Searcher!
Merryvale Website!

Lastly, if it's going to beZinfandel (red, not white) then it's got to be Ridge. The 2009 Ridge LyttonSprings Zinfandel is a great way to turn the head of any wine lover whohasn't yet explored the wonders of red Zinfandel. Ridge continues to improve upon what was already an amazingarray of wines, and in 2009 they really shined.

2009 Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel (avg. $30)
Find it on Wine-Searcher!
Ridge Vineyards Website!

Italy - My first love was Italy,and I've yet to find another region that can provide the enjoyment, value anddiversity that can be found there. The first bottle is for the true Italian wine lover. We'd all love to give or receive abottle of Barolo for Christmas, but it's not the easiest thing to afford.

No worries; the Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo is a seriousoverachiever that will please any Nebbiolo lover (Nebbiolo being the grape thatmakes Barolo and Barbaresco). It'sa wine that I buy in every vintage, sourced from fruit that could easily bemade to make Barolo and made by a true master in the region.

2007 Vietti Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco (avg. $25)
Find it on Wine-Searcher!
Vietti Website!

The Sartarelli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Balciana is a white thatdrinks like nectar from the gods. Verdicchio is often used to make easy-drinking white to pair withseafood, but this bottle takes it to all extremes. It may not be typical of Verdicchio, but it's a wine thatyou will not soon forget.

2008 Sartarelli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Balciana (avg. $22)
Find it on Wine-Searcher!
Sartarelli Website!

The Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is for the Sangiovese(Chianti and Brunello) lover. It'sa racy wine with all the stuffing to stand up to big, hearty cuisine. It's also a great alternative for theChianti drinker who's looking for something a little different.

2007 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (avg. $28)
Find it on Wine-Searcher!
Avignonesi Website!

Lastly, the 2000 Castello di MonsantoChianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio is a gorgeous wine that any Italian winelover would enjoy. Il Poggio is abarrel selection riserva from Monsanto. It’s a bottling that's hard to come by and usually costs upward of $60on release and much more with age. Imagine how happy I was to find that Grapes the Wine Company had thiskiller bottle for $40. It's abeautiful bottle of wine that's drinking well with 11 years of maturity underits belt. If you know an Italianwine lover, and you're looking to impress, this is the way to go.

2000 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio
(Grapes The Wine Company $39.99)

France - I don't drink much French winebecause I find that it's hard to find value from this region. I know that many people would disagree,but I can only tell you what I taste. However, when I do find value, it's usually in spades. In 2009, the Southern Rhone turned outanother excellent vintage. What'smore, the wines can be enjoyed now or put away for a few years to mature. The 2009 Vignobles MayardChâteauneuf-du-Pape Clos du Calvaire goes right to the point. It's a big wine with a lot of sexappeal that pleases on many levels, yet refrains from becoming overly rich orflabby. If you're going to giftFrench, you might as well do it with Châteauneuf-du-Pape, especially at thisprice point.

2009 Vignobles Mayard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Clos du Calvaire (avg. $30)
Find it on Wine-Searcher!
Vignobles Mayard Website!

Germany - One of my new-found lovesin life is German Riesling. Foryears I would taste these wines and ask myself why I didn't drink them moreoften. This year I changed all ofthat and set out on a tasting spree of every German Riesling I could find. In the end, I have a lot of favorites,but the 2009 A.J. Adam Dhroner Hofberger Riesling Kabinett took the cakefor quality versus price. It's anamazing elixir of a wine that pushes masses of citrus and mineral with a hintof sweetness and then turns the tables on you as its zesty acidity massagesyour taste buds and makes your mouth water. It's amazing stuff.

2009 A.J. Adam Dhroner Hofberger Riesling Kabinett (avg. $22)
Find it on Wine-Searcher!
A.J. Adam Website!

Chile - For those of you looking for an alternative to the big three, Chile offerstremendous value for a large selection of styles and grape varieties. One of my favorites this year was the2009 TerraNoble Carménère Gran Reserva. Carménère, which was nothing more than a blending grape in Borduexe hasshown its true potential in Chile. Some are light and easy-drinking, while others take it to the level offine wine. TerraNoble excels atthe latter and does it very well. It’s rich with a blend of intense fruit with savory, earthy notes, yetit’s balanced by excellent, focused acidity and a long finish. I bought half a case for myself, andit’s now all gone; enough said.

2009 TerraNoble Carménère Gran Reserva (avg. $17)
Find it on Wine-Searcher!
TerraNoble Website!

The V.I.P. Table's list of my most Trusted Wine Retailers!

An Umbrian spin on Sangiovese

2011-11-17T19:12:00.001-05:00

Tonight I took a break from tasting new wines. It had been a long day and I needed to stack the deck. I needed a wine that would not let me down, a wine that I had been saving for a day like today. Tonight, I opened a bottle of Paolo Bea.

The last time I talk about Paolo Bea was in my piece “Paolo Bea: A legacy in the making”. My opinions have not changed. These are amazing wines that, I believe, will one day stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the biggest names in Italy. Tonight's bottle was the 2003 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Vigna Pipparello, from the region of Umbria. It's a blend made primarily from Sangiovese (60%) with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (25%) and Sagrantino (15%). If you love Brunello or top-shelf Chianti Classico, then this is a bottle that you must seek out.

The 2003 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Vigna Pipparello came across as slightly more mature than expected, yet stunning none-the-less and with many years of fine drinking ahead of it. Coming from a perfectly stored bottle and tasted over the course of a number of hours. It was wonderfully soft and sweet on the palate with a haunting bouquet that pulled me in. Paolo Bea continues to impress me and it’s a wonder that this winery isn’t on the A-lists of more Italian wine lovers.

Keep an eye out for a recipe for
Pizzoccheri Valtellinesi on Whats Cookin'

It was enjoyed with a plate of Pizzoccheri Valtellinesi, which is a recipe I’ve been trying to master for a few weeks now. It’s seriously stick-to-your-ribs, home-style, Northern Italian cooking with fresh buckwheat pasta, cabbage, potatoes and onions, in a Fontina and sage butter sauce. Sounds easy right? Well, I’ve been having trouble getting right until—today. It was awesome and the Paolo Bea made it really shine.

2003 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Vigna Pipparello - The nose showed intense black cherry, cinnamon stick, and chalky minerals with notes of mushroom and forest floor. On the palate, sweet ripe cherry enveloped the senses, like a sweet and savory sauce with beefy notes and clove spice, adding complexities. With each sip, I was tempted to take another. It was soft as silk yet weightless on the palate with high-toned red fruit, hints of mint and herbal tea on the finish. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

As much as I love Wine-searcher, sometimes an individual retailer deserves the spotlight: Vinopolis Wine Shop in Portland Oregon has a great selection of Paolo Bea wines. They also carry an excellent selection of wines from around the world, along with some of the most highly sought after Italian wines you could hope to find. If you're interested in exploring the the wines of Paolo Bea, this is a great place to start.

2003: Barolo Retrospective

2011-11-09T23:33:00.000-05:00

I started collecting Barolo just as the 2003 vintage wasabout to be released. What a timethat was, just on the heels of the highly acclaimed ’01 vintage and theabsolute dismal failure of ’02. Atthe time, my hopes for ‘03 had already been dispelled by reports of unrelentingheat resulting in overripe fruit and under-ripe tannin. The ’03 growing season literally bakedthe fruit throughout the days and never gave them the much-needed cooler nightsto rest. The results were wines ofintense concentration with high alcohol and aggressive tannin. A few critics had picked a small numberof wines that they deemed very good, but nowhere near classic. The warning was: Buyer beware; it’sgood, but it doesn’t taste much like Barolo.

Still, I am a completeist and I had to put some bottles inmy cellar. And so, I cherry-picked. Some were the usual suspects; however,with time, stories came out here and there about ’03 Baroli that were atypical,hence, better than the regular ’03 Barolo.

The dinning room at Paprika, where
our tasting was held. Paprika continues
to impress across the board. Keep an eye
out for my special focus on Paprika
Restaurant at www.whatscook.in

Some bottles that come to mind are; Giacomo Conterno CascinaFrancia, which was touted to have been helped by the juice from the Monfortinobottling that wouldn’t be produced that year. Next was Aldo Conterno’s Il Favot, which is usually nothingmore than a Langhe Nebbiolo, yet was praised by a well-respected wine writer asbeing as superior as any Barolo because it was essentially a blend of all ofConterno’s grapes and not aged in French Oak (as the Il Favot typicallyis). Then there was the RoagnaPaje, which was highly praised by Antonio Galloni as being a standout in thevintage. Among all of these, theonly one to truly impress across a broad range of tasters has been theRoagna. In fact, it seems that thewines of Roagna, as a whole, were very classic in ’03 and certainly deserve ourattention.

The two wine's of the night. The
Roagna was classic, while the
Scavino impressed with its
sheer, sexy personality.

The results of the tasting below were a mixed bag. As Barolo lovers, we all haveconsiderable amounts of money invested in our cellars and we all want to feellike the choices we made were the right ones at the time. Unfortunately,when it comes to 2003 Barolo, the only sound investment is one that was madeoff the blowout list from our favorite retailer. Don't get me wrong; thereare a number of stellar bottles, such as the 2003 Paolo Scavino Bric del Fiascthat scored 93 points. However, if I had paid the $90 release priceinstead of obtaining it for $60 on sale, I wouldn't feel as good about it rightnow. With only a few exceptions, these aren't wines for the cellar. Those exceptions, such as the wines of Roagna, should continue to impress, butthe most common descriptor used for these bottles is "not typical of the2003 vintage." For current drinking, there are some values to befound, when the price is right. But don't make the mistake of ordering abottle of 2003 Barolo off a restaurant wine list, thinking it's going to behavelike Barolo. Informed decisions are an absolute necessity, and with that,on to the wines:

2003 Roagna Barolo Vigna Rionda - The nose of the Roagnawas classic in every way as a bouquet of cherries and earth with tar, roses andundergrowth wafted up from the glass. On the palate, it was, at first,very tight and focused with sweet cherry. With time in the glass it beganto take on weight and show darker red fruit with earthy minerals andcedar. The finish was structured, yet long and truly showed this wine'syouth. From all the 2003s I've tasted, it showed the most classic andwill benefit from further aging. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2003 Aldo Conterno Il Favot - The nose was dark withoverripe plum and crushed berries. It was almost confectionary at times,yet it had an appealing note of black olives. On the palate, I found sourcherry with clove, yet the fruit was flabby and lacked balance. Thefinish was long, however cloying with a lingering note of hard candies (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2003 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc - The noseshowed rich, dark black cherry with roses, cinnamon and clove. On the palate, I found intenseraspberry fruit balanced by a full and luxurious body with menthol, earth andsweet spices which lingered through the long finish. The ’03 Bric del Fiasc may not be a wine for the ages, butit has many more years of enjoyment ahead of it. It’s a dark, appealing... sexy wine. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2003 Pio Cesare Ornato - The 2003 Pio Cesare Ornatowas hard to understand. I kept hoping the nose would improve with time,but upon tasting this wine, I had to wonder if it was simply flawed. Thenose showed bread crust and a rusty note, with cherry fruit lurking beneath itall. On the palate, I found sweet cherry, yet the acidity in this wineburned, literally, into the finish. (83 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2003 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - The nose showedsweet red berries with spicy clove, roses and crushed fall leaves. On thepalate, it was soft and juicy with red fruit and earth. The finish waslong and pleasant. This isn't what you'd expect from Barolo, yet it'senjoyable all the same and should improve slightly over the next fewyears. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2003 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto -The nose showed tart cherry and blackberry with a note of waxy lipstick. On the palate, the fruit was intense, even overripe with blue and blackberryjam. The structure quickly overwhelmed the palate with harsh, dryingtannin that coated the mouth through the finish. It's hard to imaginethat this wine will ever balance out. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2003 Giacomo Conterno BaroloCascina Francia – The nose showed big briary red fruit, cinnamon, herbs anddark chocolate with a whiff of unmistakable heat. On the palate, I found sweet, spiced red fruit and raisinbut it was chewy with cloying, gravelly tannins that shut down the wine’sfinish. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

VinItaly comes to New York

2011-11-02T20:53:00.000-04:00

Earlier this month, I had the opportunity to attend VinItalyin New York City, at the Metropolitan Pavilion. I'm sure that many of my readers are familiar with VinItalyin Italy. For those who aren't,VinItaly is a massive, multi-day event that takes place in Verona. Thousands of producers attend, and manymore thousands of wine consumers and business people come to taste. VinItaly N.Y.C. is a significantlysmaller event, spanning over the course of a single day, yet still made very enjoyableby providing a number of clinics and hundreds of Italian wines to chose from.

Provveditore, some of the best
Morellino di Scansano I tasted at
VinItaly.

This year, there was a large emphasis placed upon Morellino di Scansano. This was veryeducational for me, since Morellino di Scansano is a wine made primarily fromSangiovese (at least 85%, but known locally as Morellino), yet from a part ofTuscany that I have not had a chance to thoroughly explore; Scansano, in theMaremma. What's even moreinteresting, yet not necessarily to my taste, is that Morellino di Scansano isallowed to be bottled very young, literally in March following theharvest. As I researched thiswine, many of my tasting notes started to make a lot more sense to me, since Ifelt that almost every bottle I tasted could benefit from a couple years’ worthof age. However, the winesthemselves were very good. What Ienjoyed even more were the Morellino di Scansano Riservas, which are aged atleast one year in barrel and another in bottle before release. You can find a number of my tastingnotes of Morellino di Scansano Here.

Donnafugata continues to impress me
The Ben Rye was an easy choice for
my top ten wines.

Another standout wasthe number of dessert-style wines that simply blew me away. I know that sweet wines have been outof style for decades now in the United States, but I'm here to say that thesewines are worth your attention; they were simply stunning. From as far south as the island ofPantelleria (2008 Donnafugata Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé) to Verona in thenorth (2006 Villa Almé Raboso Passito El Rásego), these were some of my highest-scoring wines.

In the end, it was a great tasting, filled with many winesthat were new to me and a few that have become repeat favorites. I've provided my top ten wines of thetasting with notes and scores below.

On to the Wines:

2006 Villa Almé Raboso Passito El Rásego – On the nose, this wine draws you in with amixture of ripe figs, black cherry, dark chocolate and soy. The palate was rich and weighty yetbeautifully balanced with flavors of sweet cherries, raisins, tobacco andpoached figs. The finish lasts forwell over a minute, yet it remains fresh and begs you to take another sip. (94points)

Villa Alme Website!

2008 Donnafugata Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé - Aromasof candied orange rind in brandy with hints of lemon zest and floral notes roseup from the glass in enveloping waves. On the palate, this wine showed immense weight, yet it remained elegantand fresh with sweet herbal tea, caramel and citrus flavors. The finish lasted and lasted for wellover a minute and all the while left me with a mouth-watering desirer foranother sip. (94 points)

Donnafugata Website!

2005 Travaglini Gattinara Riserva - The nose showedmasses of crushed red berries with mint and tea leaves. On the palate, it was at first smoothand enveloping before its structure took control and tannins coated the senses. However, a dense core of red fruits andearth were unmistakable and lasted through the long finish. This is a wine for the cellar. I know I’ll be putting some away inmine. (93 points)

Travaglini Website!

2008 Agricola Provveditore Morellino di Scansano PrimoRiserva - The nose showed deep, dark red fruits with floral and spicenotes. On the palate, it was firstfull-bodied and smooth with layers of red fruits and herbs, but it then shutdown quickly with a stern, structured finish. The 2008 Primo needs time and should age beautifully. (93points)

Agricola Provveditore Website!

2007 Barone di Villagrande Malvasia delle Lipari Passito- The nose showed spicy tropical fruit with lemon and florals. On the palate, it wasmedium-to-full-bodied with rich peach flavors. It was almost unbearable to spit this wine as its wonderfulbalance was both luxurious, yet fresh on the palate. The finish was loooong. Highly enjoyable. (93 points)

Barone di Villagrande Website!

2006 Tenuta Greppo (Biondi-Santi) Brunello di Montalcino- The nose showed whiffs of brown sugar with dark raspberry fruit and hints ofherbs. On the palate, it showedimpeccable balance, with a core of rich red fruit. The finish was long, yet structured, and promised many yearsof upward development. (92 points)

Biondi-Santi Website!

2008 Luce La Vite Lucente Toscana IGT - On the nose,I found dark chocolate with cranberry sour patch candy. On the palate, it showed juicy, spicyred fruit with a full body, which led to a long, long finish. It was ripe, yet balanced, and veryenjoyable. (92 points)

Luce della Vite Website!

2006 Argiolas Turriga Isola dei Nuraghi IGT - Thenose showed black raspberry jam with notes of dark chocolate and tobaccoleaf. On the palate, this waselegant and weighty with black fruits and spice. Rich yet refined, the Turriga is another wine from Argiolasthat I’d love to spend more time with. (92 points)

Argiolas Website!

2007 Barone di Villagrande Sciara di Villagrande SiciliaIGT - The nose was savory with mixed berries followed by an aroma of rich,meaty broth and earthy stems. Onthe palate, it was smooth and balanced with spicy red fruits and minerals. A bit of firm structure showed throughon the medium-long finish. (92 points)

Barone di Villagrande Website!

2007 Fattoria Le Pupille (Elisabetta Geppetti) Morellinodi Scansano Riserva - The nose showed dusty dark chocolate with red fruitsand hints of wild herbs. On thepalate, I found tart berries with a firm structured backbone. There was no doubting the quality ofwhat was in the glass, yet this wine still needs a few more years to strut itsstuff. (91 points)

Fattoria Le Pupille Website!

Ridge: Wine from a "pre-industrial" time

2011-10-08T20:51:00.000-04:00

Ridge: Lytton Springs Winery
and tasting room

Ridge Vineyards is something of a best-kept secret amongst wine lovers in the know. The grapes are sourced from vineyards throughout Santa Cruz, Napa and Sonoma Valleys. It's a winery that prides itself on a history of creating some of the most enjoyable, fascinating, and age-worthy wines coming out of California. Their lineup includes bottles for the casual drinker all the way up to the aficionado, with wines that can be enjoyed today or cellared for decades.

L to R: Eric Baugher,
Paul Draper and, John Olney

So what makes them different? A commitment to quality; to not just producing wines that will sell, but instead to producing natural wines (or, as Ridge prefers to call them, “pre-industrial”) that will leave an impact. A commitment to place, with a list of vineyard specific bottles going back decades, in a region that is only now truly starting to rediscover terroir. However, Ridge's greatest attribute are its people, starting with its famed wine-maker, Paul Draper, but surly due, in no small part, to the hard work of the entire team at Ridge.

Monte Bello Vineyard

What’s more is that there is something for everyone at Ridge. Cabernet, Chardonnay, Rhone varietals and, of course, Zinfandel, which Ridge has become synonymous with. For me, it was the Zinfandel that pulled me in and the esteemed Monte Bello (Bordeaux blend) that sealed the deal.

Some of my favorite Ridge wines,
aging in my cellar.

Can you tell I'm smitten? How about this; Ridge Vineyards holds the number three spot of most cellar wines in my collection. They are only upstaged by Vietti and Giacomo Conterno, and this is coming from a wine lover that puts Italy ahead of all other wine-producing regions. I can't think of a better testimony to the quality of these wines.

Below, I've listed my recent tasting notes for some of their current-release red Zinfandels. They are all worth your attention.

From York Creek Vineyard
high on Spring Mountain.

2009 Ridge York Creek Zinfandel - The nose was like rich blackberry jam on a piece of freshly toasted bread but with a hint of undergrowth that kept it from being too over the top. On the palate, a kaleidoscope of wild berries and spice filled the senses, and this wine switched from sweet to tart and back to sweet again. The finish was long with ripe, spiced berries. This was a highly enjoyable Zinfandel that walked a fine line between ripe and overripe but lands decidedly on the positive side. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Lytton Springs, Dry Creek Valley
boast some vines planted at the
turn of the last century.

2009 Ridge Lytton Springs - The nose showed red wild berries, a dusting of cinnamon sugar, hints of minerals and herbs, and a whiff of dark baker’s chocolate. On the palate, it was beautifully balanced and elegant with a firm start and juicy finish. Ripe red and blue fruits went from sweet to tart as it flowed across the palate. The finish was long and spicy. (92 points) Find it on: Wine Searcher!

Located in northern Sonoma
Valley, in a vineyard planted
over ninety years ago.

2009 Ridge Pagani Ranch Zinfandel - The nose was massive, as aromas of wild berries, dry coco, vanilla, ginger spice and savory notes filled the senses. On the palate, it was medium to full-bodied with amazing focus to its intense red berry fruit and spice. The masses of fruit slowly gave way to show this wine’s structure and balance. The finish was long and clinging to the palate, yet ultimately refreshing as the tannins faded away. I seriously enjoyed this structured Zinfandel and am very happy to have more in my cellar, as I can image that it will get even better with time. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Ridge Vineyards Website!
Also check out Ridge's ATP (Advanced Tasting Program). One of the most unquie wine clubs in California, where members receive small production wines, from Zins to Rhone varietals, that are not available to the public. These are amazing wines that can't be found anywhere else.

Spotlight on: Agricola Punica

2011-09-28T13:40:00.000-04:00

Last September I published a piece called “The Wild Wines of Sardinia,” which was inspired by a number of producers and wines that had impressed me from the region. Fast-forward, a year later, and one of those producers has become a staple of the Italian section of my cellar; Agricola Punica.

Carignano grapes on the vine

Agricola Punica is a collaboration of Giacomo Tachis, Tenuta San Guido and Sardinian producer Cantina di Santadi, producing Carignano-based wines in the Sulcis region of Southern Sardinia. Sardinia is an island located 125 miles off the east coast of Italy in the Mediterranean Sea. It’s a region of Italy that has a very unique climate. In the southwest corner of the Island, it is a perfect environment for the Carignano vine. The winter is mild and wet while the summers are hot and dry, with the scirocco (African winds) blowing across the Sardinian Sea. This mixed with the baking sun allows Carignano to achieve the necessary level of ripeness.

However, it’s not just the ripe concentration that makes these wines so exciting; instead it’s the amazing balance of concentration and acidity, combined with expert winemaking, which creates wines of elegance and style with a true Italian flair. Both wines are exciting and, sometimes, downright sexy.

The unique and very affordable Montessu continues to amaze me for the price compared to what’s in the bottle. In the $20 - $25 range, this is a bottle that should be in every Italian wine lover’s cellar. However, it’s the Barrua that has continued to turn my head at each tasting. The Barrua is a single vineyard bottle that’s 85% Carignano with a mix of Cabernet and Merlot. It’s rich, yet spicy, elegant and balanced, with a structure that begs for 3 - 5 years in the cellar.

On to the notes:

2008 Agricola Punica Barrua – The nose showed deep, dark red and blue fruits with hints of herbs. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with great concentration balanced by zesty acidity with red currant and spice. The tannins were present but beautifully integrated with its core of ripe fruit. The finish was long and staining to the palate, as blue and black berry flavors slowly faded away. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Agricola Punica Montessu – The nose showed intense ripe berries, sweet spices and field herbs. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with mouthwatering acidity and dark brambly fruits. The finish was long yet refreshing. This wine would make a great accompaniment to braised meats and heavy meat sauces. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Reference tools:
The official website of Agricola Punica
Agricola Punica at Kobrand Wine and Spirits

Restaurant Spotlight: Simon Pearce

2011-09-23T09:30:00.000-04:00

Over twelve years ago, my wife and I fell in love with Vermont. It's not just the rolling green hills, fresh air and breathtaking sights. It's the people and the lifestyles that they lead. There's a sense of detachment from the modern world in Vermont. Good luck finding a McDonalds or Wal-Mart, and you're lucky if your cell phone gets a signal. However, you can find a cozy café, farm stands, fresh-made pies, maple syrup and cheddar cheese around every corner. For me, as a city dweller, that's what a vacation is all about, returning to nature without an itinerary or the modern world texting, tweeting or e-mailing my name. Over the last decade, I have made a point of revisiting Vermont on a regular basis.

Views of the river, falls and
covered bridge

Among all of this serenity and relaxation, one place that I must visit on every trip, is Simon Pearce Restaurant. Simon Pearce is located in Quechee, VT, and it overlooks one of the most beautiful Vermont landscapes that you can possibly imagine. However, even with all of the tourist appeal of the surrounding towns and the priceless view from their enclosed veranda, Simon Pearce does not rely on these attributes to bring in customers. What they do rely on is their ability to repeatedly deliver one of the best dinning experiences in Vermont and possibly even in the Northeast.

Seats with a waterfall view

The menu, created by Chef Joshua Duda, is all about simple rustic country-style foods with a global influence, made with the freshest ingredients and perfectly prepared by a deft hand in the kitchen. The service is impeccable, and in my experience, on par with the finest dinning establishments I've had the joy of visiting. This is all capped off by a smartly prepared, award-winning wine list that touches on regions from around the world. When you take the menu, service and scenery into consideration, I'm hard-pressed to think of a single restaurant that I'd rather be at. Simon Pearce excels at creating a unique dinning experience of the highest level.

Sullivan Harbor Smoked Salmon

There is one sad afterthought to all of this. Simon Pearce and the scenic-covered bridge that spans the Ottauquechee River were seriously damaged during the flooding caused by Hurricane Irene. However, after a 20 day hiatus and what must have been a massive undertaking, the restaurant is now open for service again.

Ginger Seared Yellowfin Tuna

I can think of no better way to repay my appreciation for over a decade of wonderful dining experiences than by sharing this with my readers and urging you to visit. Vacationing in Vermont is a must. You owe it to yourself to experience this magical landscape and the people who call it home; and when you go there, Simon Pearce should be at the top of your list.

I'll be back there soon myself, and I hope to see you there too. Simon Pearce Restaurant

Did I mention that the sun sets over the river? It's amazing!

A Chile Revelation

2011-09-18T17:26:00.000-04:00

Loving and collecting wine is like anything else in the world; something started you on the path. Maybe it was that ’96 Barolo after an intense Saturday dinner service, a special wine that a friend poured for you at an event, or a vacation you took in a wine region. No matter what the reason is, it left a mark on you and part of the reason you keep going is to try and recapture that moment. However, like anything else, those special moments don’t happen too often. In the end, you can find yourself going months without being surprised by a new wine or years without being impressed with a different region.

However, once in a blue moon, those moments happen; and last night, I had one with the wines of Chile.

I’d say the most amazing part of this revelation was when I looked at the cost of my highest scoring bottles, which were both under $20. To have wine this good, at this price point; I think I’m in love.

One is a Cabernet of exceptional character and quality that can be enjoyed now, yet still has the ability to age. The other is made from Carmenere. “Carmen-what,” you say? Carmenere was once nothing more than a blending grape for Bordeaux that many believe had seen its last days; however, today it has found a new home in Chile and is thriving. The Terra Noble Carmenere Gran Reserva was like a Ballerina; all muscle and intensity, yet it glided effortlessly across the dance floor… err… palate.

On to the notes:

2009 Terra Noble Carmenere Gran Reserva – This wine was a showstopper as its expressive nose showed a balanced mix of red and black berries, pretty floral notes with a bit of stemy funk, and mocha and oak, which followed close behind. On the palate, it showed great balance as its rich body gave way to juicy blue and red berry fruit with cinnamon and black pepper. The finish was long, showing a mix of ripe berries. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Santa Carolina Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva de Familia – The nose showed intense, spicy blackberry jam, animal musk and coffee notes. On the palate, it was smooth and velvety, yet balanced with wild berries, dark chocolate, and subtle cinnamon. The finish was long and saturating with intense dark chocolate-covered dried cranberry. The tannins slowly melted away on the finish and showed great potential for the future of this wine. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Casa Silva Carménère Reserva - On the nose, I found blackberry, chalk dust, green bell pepper and manure. On the palate, it was big yet balanced, showing wild berries, more green-pepper leading to a cough syrup like finish. Looking back on my notes, I feel as if these descriptors fail to do this wine justice. The fact is, it was highly enjoyable in a gripping and earthy way and the complete opposite of the Terra Noble. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc Estate - The nose showed lemon with fresh cut grass, minerals and a bit of nuttiness. On the palate, this was mouth-filling with sour grapefruit, lime, minerals, and green apple. The finish was long with sour patch citrus fruits. Awesome value too. (90 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

The evolution of a bottle

2011-09-10T11:17:00.001-04:00

The evolution of a bottle of wine is something that we must sometimes wait decades for. There is this way of thinking, that if you want to watch a bottle evolve, you should buy a case and check in on it every few years. It's a very affluent way of thinking. I know that I can't afford to buy a case of every wine I'd like to keep in my cellar. And so, I usually end up with three or four bottles. This is one of the reasons why the tasting notes of other trusted collectors are so important to me, so that I can read about their experiences and try to properly plan for each of my own bottles to be opened.

Honestly, this may be more effort than the average wine lover is willing expel.

However, there is a way to cheat a little, and that's to open a bottle early in the day and check in on it throughout the day. Why? Because wine ages through the slow exposure to oxygen. Basically, what I'm doing is speeding up the clock, but not as fast as a decanter would do it. By opening a bottle and simply pouring a small glass each hour, you are given a glimpse into the wine's possible evolution.

This weekend, I decided to open a 2000 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva. A bottle with 11 years of age on it, and yet when I looked at other tasting notes, I see that many are still calling it young. I thought this was a perfect bottle to follow throughout the day.

Taurasi zone in Campania, Italy

For those that don’t know, Taurasi is made mostly from Aglianico, an ancient varietal that was cultivated as early as Roman times and was used in Falernian wine. Today, it produces big wines with a capability to age, often referred to as the “Barolo of the south.”

On to the notes:

2000 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva

At 12pm – On the nose, this wine showed bright strawberry and floral notes with a hint of moist earth. The palate was strict with acid and drying tannin, yet showed black fruits and a chewy, rustic sweetness. The finish was dry with blackberry fruit lingering to the close.

At 3pm - The nose showed beautifully with ripe strawberry and potpourri; yet as the wine sat in the glass, it turned darker and fuller with notes of candle wax, earth, mushrooms and moist fall leaves. On the palate, this wine was eloquent and soft at first but turned more tannic into the finish. The senses were wrapped with penetrating black fruit, followed by minerals and a taste of older wood, which gave it a bit of a rustic feel. The finish was laden with intense cranberry fruit, giving it a really nice sendoff. This wine is just starting to show its age, yet still has many more years to go before its structure truly softens.

At 6pm - The aromas remained very much the same, which certainly isn't a bad thing. However, by this time, the palate really came together. The tannins in the wine softened to reveal richer fruit with dark chocolate accents. The older wood note seemed more like herbal tea and woodland than before, as well as, less rustic. It came across now as a glimpse into this wine’s maturity at peak, with a gorgeous opulence and beautiful balance. This is what I love about Italian wine; I only paid a little over $50 for this bottle.

I'm happy to score this bottle 95 points.This bottle was sourced from: Grapes: The Wine Company

Risotto del vino rosso

2011-09-01T22:30:00.000-04:00

The greatest thing about risotto is how you can create an amazing dish that will impress the highest level of foodie with a simple set of ingredients. It’s funny how so many people fret the idea of making a risotto, but the fact is that once you understand the basic principals, the rest is easy.

Each risotto follows the same basic set of steps and ingredients. If you have rice, stock, onion (shallot), butter and cheese (Parmigiano or Grana Padano), then you have the makings of a cheese risotto. In my house, these ingredients are almost always on hand. A common fear people have is the making of the stock; however, when you make stock, you should always make a large quantity because it freezes well. If you choose to buy stock, then you can easily keep a good amount in your pantry.

At this point you can decide if you want to take it to the next level or not. If it will it be asparagus, then buy a bunch. When it’s time to make the risotto, give it a quick bath in the warm stock (5 minutes) and then place them into an ice bath to stabilize the color. Cut off the tips for garnish and chop the rest. Toss the chopped pieces in the risotto when it’s a minute or two away from completion. Douse the tips with some more warm stock before plating and place them on top of the risotto on the plate. If you want to give it more color, toss some toasted almond slivers on top. It’s really that easy.

Before you know it, you’ll be making up your own risotto recipes. This is very much the way I started out.

Recently I was testing a new line of cookware from Emile Henry and it gave me a really good reason to test out and improve some recipes. I found myself in a very similar situation, of wanting to make risotto but having nothing very special to dress it with. A quick tour of the kitchen gave me all the inspiration I needed. A bottle of red wine, a left over piece of pancetta, some carrots, and a bag of red grapes – Risotto del vino rosso (Red Wine Risotto).

Much of my inspiration came from the wine. Keep in mind that with this recipe, the wine pairing is obvious; simply pour the same wine that you used in the risotto and you have a match made in heaven. During a visit to a local shop, I was given a taste of a surprisingly affordable bottle of Merlot from Friuli Italy. For those who don’t know yet, Friuli is not only about white wine these days. In fact, Merlot from Friuli has been garnering some pretty high praise over the last decade, and now quality-minded producers are starting to turn out bottles that won’t break the bank.

2007 Tenuta di Blasig Merlot – On the nose, it showed a floral perfume with lush red and blue fruits; a bit rustic but only enough to be true to its Italian roots. On the palate, it showed sweet wild berries and spice, with vibrant acidity and an elegant, long finish. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Did I mention that it only cost $12.99?

Red Wine Risotto with Roasted Red Grapes

This dish is all about exciting flavors that come together in perfect unity to please the senses. Sweet meets salty meets acidity on the palate and leaves you wanting for another bite. This is the crowd pleaser and the showstopper.

5 Tbls. butter
1-½ quarts of chicken stock
2 cups risotto rice (Arborio, Cannaroli or Vialone nano)
½ red onion (small dice)
1 ¼ cups Italian Red Wine (Don’t go with anything too modern (nothing heavily oaked).)
3 Tbls of pancetta or prosciutto (small dice)
1 carrot (fine dice)
1 cup of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Gana Padano
2 tsp fresh chopped parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
Garnish with roasted red seedless grapes

Preheat your oven to 250 degrees. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper and spread out one cup of small, red seedless grapes. Place them in the oven and allow to roast for 1 ½ hours. When they are done, move to an area to cool completely.

Place the stock in a pot over a low flame and allow it to come to a simmer.

In a sauté pan, add 3 tbls of butter and place over a medium flame. Once the butter has melted, add the small dice of pancetta. Allow the pancetta to cook for five minutes, or until crispy, and then remove the pancetta and set on the side for later. Add the carrots and cook in the butter and reduced fat from the pancetta. After about two minutes, add the onions. Allow the mixture to sweat in the butter until the onions become translucent. Next, add the rice. Stir to assure that the rice is coated in the butter and allow it to toast slightly but do not allow it to take on any color.

Add the red wine to the pan and increase the flame to medium high. Set a timer for 19 minutes as a guide. Stirring constantly, allow the red wine to cook down until it has cooked down by half.

Next, reduce the heat back to medium and add a ladle of stock while constantly stirring. Each time the stock cooks down to the point where the rice begins to form trails in the pan as the spoon stirs it, add another ladle of stock. When there is about 10 minutes left on the timer, sprinkle a small pinch of salt into the risotto.

Continue stirring and adding stock as needed until the timer reads three minutes remaining. Add 2/3 of the pancetta back into the pan and stir to combine. It is at this time that you should taste for seasoning and doneness. A proper al dente should have a very slight crunch to it at its core. Be careful, at this time, that you don’t add too much stock, but also keep in mind that the 19-minute timer is only a guide and that it’s taste that will really tell you when it’s done.

When the risotto is al dente, remove it from the heat. Add the last two tbls. of butter and the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, a few cracks of fresh pepper, and stir to combine.

When you are ready to plate, if the rice is too thick, you can add a small ladle of stock, to liven it up. Plate the risotto into small heated bowls, sprinkle with parsley, the remaining pancetta, and spread out some of the roasted grapes on top. Serve.

Antinori: Generations in the making

2011-08-18T19:53:00.000-04:00

If you’re a lover of Italian wine, then you must know the name Antinori. With bottles like Guado al Tasso, Solaia and Tignanello; Antinori conquered the fine wine racket with a host of “Super Tuscans” that helped define a generation of winemaking. However, you don’t need to spend upwards of $70 to enjoy a gorgeous bottle of Tuscan juice from this winery, which is now on it’s 26th generation of ownership (that’s right, 26 generations). Antinori also produces a number of bottles in the value category that drink beautifully. One of my favorites value wines is the Antinori Chianti Classico Peppoli. Each year I look forward to the newest vintage for easy drinking and highly enjoyable Chianti.

2008 Antinori Chianti Classico Pèppoli - The nose showed dusty potpourri with fresh crushed cranberry, cinnamon stick, and dark bakers chocolate. On the palate, it was medium bodied with a high level of acidity pushing dry yet intense red fruit and mocha. The finish was long on the palate with some drying tannin and lots of dry red fruit extract. (88 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

I was a little on the fence with this wine but it opened up nicely after a couple of hours open in bottle. Once it started to show a little body on the palate, the dry red fruits and high acidity became more and more tolerable. In the end this is not Chianti for the neophyte, but does provide an interesting contrast to many of the, soft and modern, Chianti on the market these days.

I enjoyed this wine. I won’t put more in my cellar but I would be happy to accept a glass if offered. For a great value white wine from Antinori, I highly recommend the Antinori, Guado al Tasso Vermentino. It's an Italian white that smells and tastes as if it had been plucked right from a Mediterranean coast only days before you tasted it.

Grandi Vini: One man's opinion of Italy's best wines

2011-08-13T07:18:00.001-04:00

I’m thinking back almost seven years ago to when I first started reading Vino Italiano (from authors Joseph Bastianich and David Lynch), which was my first bible for Italian wine. I had only just begun to explore wine and had fallen deeply in love with Italy. Vino Italiano was the end all of Italian wine in my universe. I must have read the book five times from cover to cover, going region by region, and trying to imagine the vineyards, wineries and people that made it all possible. It was the golden age of my wine education. Looking back now, there was one thing that Vino Italiano was missing: winery profiles. Enter Joseph Bastianich’s new book, Grandi Vini.

Joseph Bastianich

The Bastianich family has literally become synonymous with Italian food and wine, with a number of restaurants, retail ventures and even a winery in Friuli. Joseph Bastianich has spent his life in the industry, starting with his mother’s (Lidia Bastianich) restaurant in Forest Hills, Queens, where he rubbed elbows with distributors, importers and visiting wine-makers. Later in life, he traveled through Italy to find direction, working with winemakers in the vineyards and the wineries. Vino Italiano, and now Grandi Vini, are the result of this lifetime of experiences.

Grandi Vini is one man’s opinion of what the 89 best wines are coming from Italy today. Split up into the five different sections of Italy (Central Italy, The Islands, Northeast Italy, Northwest Italy and Southern Italy), Grandi Vini manages to provide a diverse and highly informative guide to some of the biggest names in Italian wine today. Even from the perspective of a well-versed Italophile, I still found myself pouring through this book to search for something new, something interesting; and the best part is, I found plenty of both.

The best part is that Grandi Vini doesn’t just cover the usual suspects. Many of the wineries profiled are off-the-beaten-path producers that I have spent years slowly learning about through tips from other collectors and extensive reading, yet here they all are. For the beginner, Grandi Vini presents something of a behind-the-scenes look into the world of fine Italian wine. For the obsessed, it’s a welcome addition and packed with useful information about some of our favorite wines and winemakers.

A Risotto Rendezvous

2011-07-16T00:27:00.000-04:00

The summer is in full swing, and with it, my schedule has been full of wining and dining my clients and friends. There have been some great bottles and I’m looking forward to sharing many of those experiences with you. However, today I wanted to also make my readers aware of an interesting event taking place in NYC at the end of July.

Pumpkin Risotto

If you are a friend or client you know that one of the things that people love about my work are the many risottos in my arsenal. I love it! Nothing makes me happier than risotto and especially one that is made with patience and with a deft hand. Unfortunately, there’s a lot lack luster risotto being served in restaurants today. This causes many people to ask me what it takes to make risotto. My number one answer is patience and the best ingredients. However, I never would have gotten off the ground without the lessons taught to me in school by culinary professionals.

Imagine my fascination when I heard about the following event coming to New York this July. The Risotto Rendezvous on Wednesday, July 27, 2011 from 6:30 p.m. – 8:30 p.m. at the International Culinary Center in downtown New York.

Michelle Lawton of “The Joyful Plate,” and Lina Pernigo, chef at La Foresteria Serègo Alighieri at Masi, will prepare and serve three risotto courses while instructing guests as she cooks. What also makes this event special is that Raffaele Boscaini, of Masi Agricola, will be hosting the event and pairing a number of Masi wines with the food. I can’t think of a more interesting evening for someone who enjoys the wines of the Veneto and the joys of risotto.

For anyone who follows this blog, you may recall that the 2005 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Costasera, was one of my top ten wines from the Gambero Rosso, Tre Bicchieri tasting in NYC earlier this year. This event makes for an excellent way to learn about risotto and Masi. I’m hoping to be there myself, if my schedule permits.

To purchase tickets: Masi Risotto Rendezvous
Masi website: Masi Agricola

Some of my recent notes on Masi wines:

2007 Masi Campofiorin Ripasso Veronese IGT - The nose showed black cherry, dusty potpourri and sautéed mushroom with hints of cinnamon and clove. It was soft and enveloping on the palate with wild berries, and spices leading to a juicy sweet finish with red fruits and minerals lingering to the end (91 points)

2005 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Serègo Alighieri Vaio Armaron - The nose showed black cherry, yet it was savory as salty cheeses and holiday spice filled the senses. On the palate, it showed a full body with cherry liquor, herbs, cedar and earth. A little sweet but wonderfully finessed with a long, slightly pepper filled finish. (92 points)

2005 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Costasera - The nose showed rich black cherry, spices and tree bark, yet there was something animal about this wine that truly balanced the seductive fruit. On the palate, it was large scaled and rich, with cherry and spice, yet still feminine and graceful. The finish was long yet fresh. (93 points)

Is it Napa or Friuli? Neither. It's Massican

2011-06-29T12:32:00.000-04:00

When you hear the words Napa Valley, there are a number of things that may come to mind. Certainly the large scale Cabernets and Meritage blends that Napa is so proud of. Maybe the 1976 Judgment of Paris that put California on the international map. Or, if you’re truly initiated, it might be the exciting Sauvignon Blanc that has been hitting the market. However, one thing that doesn’t easily come to mind are Northern Italian-inspired wines that taste more of the old world than the new, yet somehow manage to still be truly Californian. Yet that is exactly what Massican has captured in each of their bottles.

Ribolla vines
photo courtesy of Dan Petroski

Now on its second vintage, Massican has succeeded in showing that lightning can strike twice. Headed up by Dan Petroski (of Larkmead Vineyards) and sourcing its fruit from around Napa Valley, Massican strives to show the world that California is capable of creating white wines of verve, rooted in the earth, and electric on the palate.

Is it just another gimmick? Absolutely not. The white wines of Friuli have been wowing palates around the world for well over a decade now. Names such as Jermann, Miani, and Vie di Romans have been finding their way into collectors’ cellars for a long time, and not just the cellars of the committed Italophile; these wines are pleasing to a wide range of palates. Such was the inspiration for Massican.

Sixty-four year old Tocai vines
photo courtesy of Dan Petroski

Having sourced their fruit from Tocai vines that are sixty-four years old, Ribolla from the only known Ribolla vineyard in California and Chardonnay, which is planted in the coolest climate areas of Napa Valley, Massican is showing us that California is capable of more. It's a refreshing take on a region that has proved it can make big, bold wines to compete with Bordeaux. Now Massican has set out to show that it is capable of wines of refinement, earth, acid and stone. Those who love the white wines of Austria, Germany and Northern Italy... These are are for you.

Sauvignon Blanc air-drying for the Passito
photo courtesy of Dan Petroski

To truly set off the environment for this tasting, I invited a fellow wine writer to join me in a taste of Friuli dinner, during which we followed the wines for over four hours all paired with the regional cuisine of Friuli, Italy. It was a stunning success. The Massican wines paired beautifully with the flavors of Friuli. I could almost imagine myself sitting by the fogolar (hearth, cooking, meeting and eating spot in the traditional Friuli home), sipping wines made by the same people who tended the fields and raised the animals that provided us with our meal.

On to the wines:

2010 Massican Annia – The 2010 Annia, a blend of tocai friulano, ribolla gialla and chardonnay, is truly rooted in the earth as aromas of minerals and schist filled out the nose. With further exploration, I found white flowers, lemon zest and green melon. On the palate, an earthy salinity followed by citrus and honeydew melon glided across the senses. There was a lean acidity that provided laser-like focus and a mouthwatering zing that lasted into the finish with flavors of herbs and melon. This wine continued to gain depth and nuance over the course of 24 hours. I would have never expected the Annia came from Napa, and I mean that in the best possible way. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

The food for the wine: The Annia was paired with a salad of baby greens with Prosciuto san Daniel and figs poached in sweet Marsala. The dressing was a reduction of the poaching liquid with a splash of red wine vinegar and olive oil. The pairing was perfect.

2010 Massican Gemina – The nose was floral with honey, almond skins and green apple. On the palate, it showed a fuller body than the Annia with a similar acid profile. Flavors of nectarine and white fruits filled the senses and gained sweetness toward the back palate. The finish was fresh and mouthwatering, as the fruits turned to sour melon. This blend of chardonnay and ribolla gialla was very pleasing, right out of bottle, but really came to life with time in the glass. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Photo courtesy of Dave Trieger
of Vigna Uva Vino

The food for the wine: The Gemina was paired with Paparot (a cornmeal-spinach soup) with a side of Salsicce al Vino (pork sausage poached in white wine). The softer character of the Gemina lent well to this pleasing peasant dish from Friuli. The biting acidity also gave a much-needed lift to the polenta and spinach.

2010 Massican Sauvignon Blanc – The nose on the Sauvignon Blanc showed lemon sabayon, a classic whiff of cat pee, buttery crust and herbs. On the palate, I found a beautiful balance and structure with flavors of lime and granny smith apple. The finish was long and tangy with citrus and stone fruits. It was a complete and highly enjoyable wine that had an alluring "drink me" personality. It will be hard to keep your hands off this now, however this bottle should continue to improve for a few years in bottle. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

The food for the wine: Costicine di Maile con Verze (braised pork chops with savoy cabbage) with Rape e Patate All’Aceto (tangy skillet turnips and potatoes). This combination was a perfect example of how the bracing acidity of these wines can truly liven up a meal. The pork loin chops over cabbage were seductive in their rich and inviting flavors, but it was the zest of citrus from the Sauvignon that made it so memorable. Add to that the tangy turnip and potatoes with thick sliced pieces of bacon and you have a meal that was pure sinful indulgence.

2010 Massican Passito – The Passito, a sweet wine from air-dried sauvignon blanc and a small part ribolla gialla, showed a bouquet of honeysuckle with mint and sage pudding. On the palate, I found peach, sweet melon and lemon curd with a lush full body and zesty acidity that promised years of development in bottle. The finish went on and on with notes of sweet melon. (91 points)Find it: Wine-Searcher!

The food for the wine: What would you pair with a sweet Pasito-style wine? Some might say a cheese plate, but I’d rather go for a dessert that doesn’t depend on its own sweetness to satisfy—how about a tart? Torta di Mele is an apple tart with a crust made from toasted hazelnuts and breadcrumbs. Without the Passito, it’s a beautiful dessert with flavors of sour apple and roasted nuts in butter and toasty goodness, but with the Passito, it truly shined. Neither the Passito nor the tart took center stage; instead they complemented each other with sweet versus sour and a crispy buttery shell versus a smooth lush sweetness. It was a match made in heaven.

You can also join the Massican mailing list from their website. Here!

Restaurant Spotlight: Tolani

2011-06-16T21:55:00.000-04:00

The Upper West Side, of New York City, has certainly defined itself as a restaurant destination in the last five years. There was a time when I started feeling like each time someone recommended a new and exciting place, it would be in that area. In fact, visiting this part of town is like a stroll down memory lane for me as I pass familiar signs and windows. However, these days there’s a new spot on the Upper West Side that has gotten me to come back over and over again, literally: Tolani Wine Restaurant.

From the outside, this unassuming restaurant may seem like just another wine bar with some sidewalk seating, but it’s far more than that. Upon entering Tolani, you find yourself enveloped by its warm atmosphere with a casual bar-meets-artful lounge feel. Warm wood tones and well-managed shaded lighting set the stage for comfort, romance or a meeting of the minds. However, it’s when you go downstairs that this establishment’s hidden treasures are truly revealed. The downstairs dinning area takes the warm comfort from the bar and transforms it into a candlelit fine dining atmosphere with full view of a glass-enclosed wine cellar and outdoor patio seating. The mix of atmosphere and mood setting makes Tolani a highly versatile hotspot for any event.

The experience continues as you sit down for dinner. With Executive Chef Luis Ulloa (and Consulting Chef Craig Hopson of Le Cirque), the kitchen at Tolani manages to turn out plate after plate in a mix of unique and eclectic dishes. Perfectly balancing a number of cuisines from around the world while still keeping the menu cohesive and flowing, there is a level of passion and attention to detail that truly speaks through the food. With each visit, I feel as if I’m surprised by something different and new. Add to this the exciting list of wines and cellar full of various treasures and you have the makings of a great evening out. Honestly, I can’t think of the last time that I was so impressed with a menu as a whole.

On to the food:

Cauliflower Soup
Blue crab meat, black truffle

The Cauliflower soup was a perfect example of how less can be more. The soup itself was creamy, almost decedent, invoking earthy flavors that were set off by the silken sweetness of the crabmeat. It was warming, like something you’d find in an Alpine Chalet, yet elegant with layers of flavor.

Grilled Octopus
Greek Salad & Romaine Hearts, Feta Cheese, Red Onions, Cucumbers, Kalamata Olives

The Grilled Octopus showed the level of attention paid to details and fresh ingredients at Tolani. The meat itself was perfect, seared by an expert hand, which lent a satisfying snap as you bit into it and found the silky, buttery flesh beneath. It was fresh and delicious over an unassuming Greek-styled salad. Not overthought, not overdone, it was just perfectly cooked and seasoned. Serve this to someone who claims to not like Octopus, and watch their eyes light up.

Pannekoek
Savory Crepe, Slow Braised Pork Shoulder, Apple ginger chutney

The savory crepe is an art not practiced often enough in restaurants, and at Tolani, they’ve done a masterful job. The aromas wafting up from the plate were intoxicating with holiday spices and baked apple in butter piecrust. You would think that this can’t taste as good as it smells—but it does. This dish provided a menagerie of flavors and sensations on the palate, but what impressed me most was the addition of the ginger chutney that lent just enough spice and zing to keep this rich and sedative dish alive and kicking.

Pappardelle
Braised short rib, black truffle and arugula

Touted by one of my guests as one of the best pasta dishes he’d ever eaten, the Pappardelle may not have ranked in my top five, but easily in my top ten. Eating this invoked thoughts of sitting in a small trattoria in northern Italy. The homemade pasta was a rustic, stick-to-your-bones variety, which seemed to be from another time and place, however it still managed to fit in perfectly with the other items on the menu. The braised pulled rib meat was succulent with a parade of herbs, spicy flavors and a level of richness that can only be achieved through slow braising.

Pan-Seared Diver Scallops
Sweet Corn Puree, Succotash, Black Truffle Vinaigrette

The Pan-Seared Diver Scallop was another dish that Tolani managed to balance right at the brink of sweet and heat. The scallop itself was perfectly fresh and perfectly cooked with a satisfyingly sweet crunch to the flesh. Within the meat was silken smooth and luxurious. This was a dish that allowed you to explore through its many ingredients, experimenting with hot spices, sweet corn and the mouth-watering vinaigrette. In a word: exceptional.

Tolani Wine Restaurant Website!

Producer Spotlight: Sherwood House Vineyards

2011-06-11T06:48:00.000-04:00

North Fork, Long Island

My tasting at Sherwood House was certainly meant to be, but it almost didn’t happen. It was one of the only tastings that I didn’t schedule but came highly recommended by another winemaker on the island. The confusing part was the tasting rooms, because there were two. One, was literally a small shack in the middle of a vineyard off Route 48 (right by Shinn), with limited hours, and the other (on route 25) was one of the most relaxing and stylish tasting rooms I visited during my entire trip. The wines were excellent, made by winemaker Gilles Martan at Sparkling point, and the surroundings were amazing. I even asked if the building, which housed the tasting room, doubled as a Bed and Breakfast, because it had such a feel to it that I can only describe as “welcome home to your luxurious rustic lifestyle.”

One of the most interesting displays
of wine that I've seen in a while.

However, there’s much more to Sherwood House than a beautiful tasting room. Their 2008 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay was one of my top rated of the trip, and the 2005 Merlot was an excellent value at $25. In the end, Sherwood House Vineyards should be on anyone’s short list when going out to the North Fork.

On to the wines:

2005 Sherwood House Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs – On the nose, I found lemongrass, florist shop, and sour apple. On the palate, this showed piercing acidity with flavors of crushed wheat, sour apple and herbs. The finish was dry but very refreshing. (89 points)

2009 Sherwood House Chardonnay Oregon Road ($18) – On the nose, this wine was almost savory, as spices and bacon fat filled the senses. On the palate, I found apple and pear notes backed by an herbal quality. This wine showed beautiful balance in its focused fruit and smooth plush mouth-feel. The finish was floral, fruity and long. (90 points)

2008 Sherwood House Chardonnay Estate Grown ($30) – On the nose, I found buttered toast, pure peach fruit and dried apricot. On the palate, this was smooth with flavors of apple, light vanilla and a core of minerals. It was long and balanced on the finish as the fruit faded away. (91 points)

2007 Sherwood House Chardonnay Estate Grown ($30) – This wine showed a luxurious nose with peaches ‘n cream and hints of new cedar. On the palate, this was full-bodied and smooth with buttery herbs, hints of lime, and vanilla, which lingered into the finish. This barrel fermented Chardonnay showed incredible richness and balance. (90 points)

2009 Sherwood House Merlot Sandy Blush White Merlot ($18) – On the nose, this was rich with an expressive nose showing cherries, melon and hints of burnt sugar. On the palate, it showed a medium soft body that was kept interesting by brisk acidity as white cherry washed across the senses. It finished fresh with floral notes and red fruit. (89 points)

2005 Sherwood House Merlot ($25) – The nose showed red berries, spice, and earthy stone dust. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with wild berries, herbs and spice. The oak was hardly visible in this beautifully balanced Merlot. (91 points)

2004 Sherwood House Cabernet Franc ($40) – On the nose, hints of floral perfume, with lots of spice and candle wax filled the senses. On the palate, I found blackberry, spice, and a hint of greenery. (87 points)

2005 Sherwood House Sherwood Manor ($55) – On the nose, I found red berries, herbs, spice, and cedar. It was finely balanced on the palate, with flavors of strawberry and slight peppery notes. This wine showed beautiful structure leading to silky tannins on the finish but with enough fruit to keep it pleasant, focused and fresh. (92 points)

2007 Growers Alliance Merliance Merlot – On the nose, I found red berries with greenery and tree bark. On the palate, it showed sweet dark red fruits with herbs and spice, which stayed into the finish. (87 points)

For more information and to purchase wines, check out The Sherwood House Vineyards Website.

My trip to the North Fork Long Island, for Snooth, was an eye opening event. Recent vintages have shown what the Long Island wine industry is truly capable of. To read more about recent vintages and the top 10 wines of my tasting, visit Long Island Wines: 10 top picks from the North Fork.

Producer Spotlight: Macari Vineyards

2011-06-08T19:41:00.000-04:00

North Fork, Long Island

The most amazing thing about Macari Vineyards isn’t the gorgeous tasting room, outfitted from wall to wall with art, gifts and Macari wines, or the large dining area that can easily double as a banquet hall. It isn’t just the size of the vineyards that stretched from Route 48 to the Long Island Sound. And It isn’t just one wine or even a few. The most amazing thing about Macari Vineyards is that they can consistently produce such a large number of wines at such a highly level of quality. Everything else is just icing on the cake. Tasting at Macari provided taste after taste in a colidoscope of different varietals and styles that were all highly enjoyable. There is absolutly something for everyone at Macari.

Macari Vineyards, established in 1995, comprises of 180 acres, containing vineyards, animals, produce, a large green house and even their own compost production area. They pride themselves on practicing sustainable agriculture and employing biodynamic principals. In fact, pride was something that radiated from each of the staff I encountered at the tasting room. And what a tasting room it was. Macari allows visitors to sample the wines, relax with a view of the vineyards and enjoy a selection of cheeses or other edibles. It was odd for me to be visiting them on a quiet rainy April afternoon because I had a tremendous urge to be there when their season was in full swing, like it is now.

On to the Wines...

2007 Macari Chardonnay Estate ($19) – On the nose, this was almost meaty with floral notes and herbs. The palate was structured with good acidity and great balance. (89 points)

2007 Macari Chardonnay Reserve ($23) – This was big and rich on the nose but kept in check with earthy notes followed by apricot and stone. On the palate, it was full-bodied and showed some of the oak on the finish. (89 points)

2009 Macari Sauvignon Blanc "Katherine's Field" ($23) – The nose showed tropical fruits, sour citrus, chalky minerals and that textbook Sauvignon Blanc “cat piss” (I mean that in the best way). On the palate, it showed sour citrus, minerals and a nice concentration of fruit. It finished with a sour note. This wine was very enjoyable. (91 points)

2010 Macari Sauvignon Blanc "Katherine's Field" ($23) – On the nose, I found ripe tropical fruits, citrus and herbs. On the palates, it had a focused concentration of ripe citrus fruits and lots of brisk acidity to keep it fresh and very pleasant. The sour patch finish was long, long, long. This was one of my top 10 wines from my Long Island article on Snooth. (92 points)

2009 Macari Riesling ($30) (Sourced from the finger lakes) – On the nose, I found citrus with a spritz of minerally lime. The palate tasted like a citrus explosion with tart lemon and stone. The finish was long with sour patch and herbs. This is a New York Riesling made from fruit sourced at the Finger Lakes. (88 points)

2010 Macari Riesling ($30) (Sourced from the finger lakes) – The nose showed fresh floral notes and citrus. On the palate, I found hints of butter and lemon. It was softer and sweeter that the 2009 but well structured, as lime and herbs took me through the finish. (89 points)

2010 Macari “Early wine” ($17) (100% Chardonnay) – The nose was floral and fresh with white fruits and lime. It was pleasantly fruity and balanced on the palate with a finish that hinted at this wine’s tiny amount of residual sugar. This would make for a great summer sipper. (88 points)

(NV) Macari Merlot Collina 48 Merlot ($13) – The nose showed red berries, earth and chalk dust. On the palate, this showed a full body, yet it was fresh and focused with red berries, herbs and cedar. (89 points)

(NV) Macari Sette ($19) – The nose showed lots of blackberry. On the palate, I found wild berries and spice. The finish was dry and showed sour berry fruit. (87 points)

2008 Macari Dos Aguas ($27) – The nose showed sweet blue and black berries with spice. It was full-bodied and fruity on the palate. (87 points)

2008 Macari Cabernet Franc ($35) – The nose showed dark berries, spice and cedar. On the palate, I found red fruits and spice with a firm yet juicy structure; a bit vegetal but rich enough to hold its own. (89 points)

2005 Macari Merlot Reserve ($36) – On the nose, I found black cherry, sweet herbal tea, undergrowth and lots of earth. On the palate, this showed a broad full body with masses of ripe berries and spice. The finish was long and fruity. This wine really stood out from the lineup and is further proof that holding North Fork Merlot for later release turns out truly stunning results. This was one of my top 10 wines from my Long Island article on Snooth. (92 points)

2007 Macari "Bergen Road" ($46) – The nose was big and rich with crushed wild berries and hints of vanilla. On the palate, it was luxurious with fresh cherries and spice that filled the senses. The finish was long with cherry and hints of wood. (89 points)

2008 Macari Block E ($40) (Ice wine, 69% Viogier, 31% Pinot Gris) – The nose showed tropical fruits, herbs, nuts and butter. On the palate, it was rich and sweet but ultra fresh and floral with roast nuts, orange peel and spices. The finish lasted over a minute. (91 points)

To visit or purchase Macari wines, check out their website at: Macari Vineyards!

Find Macari wines on: Wine-Searcher!

My trip to the North Fork Long Island, for Snooth, was an eye opening event. Recent vintages have shown what the Long Island wine industry is truly capable of. To read more about recent vintages and the top 10 wines of my tasting, visit Long Island Wines: 10 top picks from the North Fork.

Producer Spotlight: Crociani

2011-06-05T20:50:00.000-04:00

Italian Wine Merchant, NYC
The retailer that started me on the road
to Italian wine.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

When I first started my journey into Italian wine, it was a mixture of reading and knowledgeable sales people who helped me make my buying decisions. I still look back on those days with fondness, as I was trying so hard to taste everything and to understand all the differences from region to region and within all the Italian wine laws and regulations. It was dizzying, but magically so, in that each day held a new surprise and potentially a new wine that would peak my interests enough to dig deeper. Some wines stood out immediately and became the Italian foundation of my wine cellar, while others were nothing more than interesting enough to make note of or dedicate a brief time to study. For the most part, I succeeded, but I will admit that I made some hasty decisions.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano was one of those hasty decisions. With all the amazing wines of Tuscany to explore, and so many other wines to taste, I somehow allowed one poor bottle of Vino Nobile to sway my opinion of this entire appellation in the wrong direction. For years I would reach for Brunello, Super Tuscans, Chianti, Carmignano, Chianti Ruffina or Bolgheiri before even considering Vino Nobile--and somehow, I managed to go the next four years without tasting a single bottle. I full-heartedly admit that it was a mistake.

This last February, while attending "The Italian Wine Masters" tasting in NYC, my eyes were opened to what Vino Nobile could be. A large part of this was from tasting back vintages of 1999 and 2001. These wines were majestic, pure, elegant, spicy, earthy and exactly what I wanted from a wine that is primarily Sangiovese at the age of ten or more years. However, another producer also stuck out to me, both because of the quality in the glass and the passion of the owner: Crociani

Susanna Crociani

Susanna Crociani carries on a tradition of winemaking that has lasted for generations in Montepulciano. Crociani produces a full range of wines made from the traditional Tuscan grapes Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese), Canaiolo nero and Mammolo at their estate vineyards at Le Caggiole. The Crociani name was not one that I had heard of before recently, as their distribution in the states has been limited. However, I full truly hope that this will change soon. The wines are fantastic and amazing values for what you find in the glass. Being a fan of Sangiovese in all its forms, tasting the Vino Nobile of Crociani was a breath of fresh air. The wines show such remarkable freshness in their youth, yet have the stuffing to age gracefully and, with aeration, take on a remarkable amount of depth and nuance.

Prugnolo Gentile
(Sangiovese)

The entry-level Rosso di Montepulciano is a great any-day wine that lends well to food pairings with its zesty acidity and Tuscan terroir showing through. However, the Rosso d’Arnaldo took things to a whole new level as it wowed the palate with a sheen of rich decadence, yet still retained the fresh and vibrant qualities of the Rosso. As I moved into the Vino Nobile, the wine showed more elegance and an attractive spicy nature, but it was the Riservas that truly stole the show. Being able to taste a number of vintages from ’99, ’04, ’06 and ’07, I was truly able to see the progression of this bottling. In their youth, they are tight and in need of decanting, but with a core of dark red fruits. With a few more years in the bottle, they turn rich and showy as the core of fruit expands on the palate and takes on hints of earth and woodsy notes.

In experimenting with these bottles, I found myself buying more Vino Nobile to try and understand this region better. What I learned is that I adore them. These are great wines that are easily able to stand tall next to whatever Tuscany has to offer, and they will find a place in my cellar.

So the next time your tastes turn to Tuscany, look for a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano; it’s not just a pretty name or a gimmick. And if you can find Crociani, I think you’ll agree that they are well worth the price of entry, but give that Riserva a little time to blossom.

On to the notes…

2008 Crociani Rosso di Montepulciano Rosso d'Arnaldo – On the nose, an initial whiff of fresh herbs turned fruity and rich with cherries dipped in dark chocolate, cinnamon and notes of herbal tea. On the palate, it was mid-weight and silky as flavors of wild berry, mulling spices, dark wood and salinity spread across the senses. It turned slightly bitter, yet left a remarkably fresh impression on the finish. This was a joy to drink, and it’s an excellent and unique Tuscan alternative to Chianti. (90 points)

2009 Crociani Rosso di Montepulciano – The nose showed brambly fruit with violet and hints of pepper. On the palate, I found a good balance of red fruit and acidity with woodsy tones, but the finish was a bit drying. This wine truly shines with a good meal.(88 points)

1999 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – The nose showed dried red fruits with undergrowth, hints of green stems and pepper. On the palate, the fruits turned round and sweet, as this wine strutted a fine, mature structure with flavors of lush wild berries and spice. The finish was fresh and juicy. (90 points)

2007 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – The nose showed masses of raspberry, cedar, herbs and a bit of older wood. The palate was structured, but not austere, and savory with rich black cherry. The finish coated the palate with fine tannin. This wine would benefit from a few years in the cellar. (91 points)

2008 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – It took two hours in decanter before this wine truly began to shine, but it was well worth the wait. On the nose, I found floral notes, sweet spices, dried apple and strawberry. On the palate, it was soft and slightly spicy with plum and a hint of salinity. The finish rounded out nicely with decanting and showed notes of soil and herbal fruit tea. (90 points)

2004 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva – The nose showed crushed wild berries, woodland notes and soil. With time in the glass, the bouquet turned darker and richer, as whiffs of sweetened herbal tea and cinnamon stick came to the fore. On the palate, it was elegant with rich red fruits, orange rind, rose petal and notes of beefy broth. The rich red fruit turned to juicy cherry as the wine came together on the finish. This bottle was beautiful and is drinking well now with proper decanting. (93 points)

2006 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva – The nose showed red fruits, violets and a hint of toast. On the palate, I found a rich, full-bodied wine, with brambly red fruit and cedar. The finish was smooth and long. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

2007 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva – The nose showed crushed sour berries, sweet spices and lavender with hints of wood barrel. On the palate, a core of dark red fruit is wrapped in silky tannin with minerals, notes of herbal tea and hints of sweetness on the mid-palate. Red berries linger on the medium long finish. (92 points)

2003 Crociani Vin Santo di Montepulciano – The nose showed intense almond, cotton candy and coffee notes. On the palate, this wine was refined, showing roasted nuts, orange peel and toffee but with less sweetness than I’ve come to expect from Vin Santo. Ultimately, this was a pleasure to drink as it showed remarkable balance and refinement. (92 points)

Visit the Crociani Website.
Find the wines of Crociani on Wine-Searcher!

California Dreamin'

2011-05-28T07:22:00.001-04:00

A Pride Vineyard

Two years ago, a trip to Napa and Sonoma Valleys changed the way I looked at Californian wine. Being a wine drinker who started and fell in love with Italy, I went to California with an open mind but a lingering thought that I would be disappointed. However, I was far from disappointed, as I came to realize that the wine most people thought of as Californian was far from what the passionate and pioneering producers were making. Wineries such as Pride, Trespass, EMH, Larkmead, Alpha Omega and a host of others successfully showed me that there are juicy, structured and elegant wines of depth and nuance to be found in California.

That trip also resulted in me signing up for a number of lists and making a number of purchases of the bottles I enjoyed. I figured it was about time to check in on some of the wines that thrilled me two years ago, as well as some recent releases from those wineries. To put it mildly, I was happily impressed. If you’re looking to delve into California, this list is certainly a great place to start. None of these are cheap; however, they are all worth their tariff.

If there's one significant impression that I walk away from with this tasting with, its that I need to plan another tasting trip to California in the near future.

On to the wines:

2009 Larkmead Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Lillie B4 Block – On the nose, this wine wowed me with pear and peach, wet stone, a spritz of lime, field grasses and sour clotted cream. On the palate, it was incredibly elegant and soft but with an underlying structure and a core of vibrant acidity that made the mouth water in preparation for the flavors of peach, honeydew and minerals that followed. As this wine finished, a lovely note of pineapple lingered for what seemed to be a full minute. (93 points) Larkmead Website

2009 Massican Gemina – The Gemina had filled out even more since I last tasted it. The nose showed almond, citrus fruit and honeysuckle with white flowers tempting you to taste, and as time passed, I also found a layer of mineral and stone which added a good amount of depth to the wine. On the palate, it was a rich yet refined, medium bodied wine showing honeydew melon, buttery lemon and grapefruit, which lasted into its long finish. (92 points) Massican Website (Also look out for a full review of Massican's 2010 lineup coming soon!)

2008 A.P. Vin Pinot Noir Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard – The nose showed wild herbs, raspberry and strawberry with allspice and hints of wood shop. On the palate, I found cherry with orange rind and sweet spice. The finish was shorter than expected and showed a bit more alcohol than I’d like, but with time in decanter the edges rounded out and left me with an overall good impression of this wine. (90 points) A.P. Vin Website

2008 Larkmead Vineyards Firebelle – The nose showed black currant, cherry liquor, spice, brown sugar and a hint of fresh-turned soil. On the palate, it was velvety smooth and luxuriant with blackberry jam, cherry wood and spice. The finish was exceptionally long with blackberry and currant fruit, yet it was fresh and begging for another sip. (94 points) Larkmead Website

2006 Pride Mountain Vineyards Merlot – The nose showed blueberry and blackberry with molasses, a hint of vanilla and, with air in the glass, sweet confectionary spices. On the palate, it was warm and seductive with a full-balanced body, showing black cherry, cinnamon and spice with dark chocolate and cola leading into the long finish. Pride successfully balanced elegance and structure in this excellent bottle of Merlot. (92 points) Pride Mountain Vineyards Website

2005 Trespass Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown – When this bottle was first opened the nose showed strawberry, sour berries, candied sugar and a hint of bell pepper. However, over the course of three hours, it came to life, as the pepper faded back to reveal notes of earth, leather and hints of barnyard. On the palate, it was beautifully structured and surprisingly feminine, as an initial burst of acidity turned soft as velvet on the tongue with flavors of black currant, herbs and a hint of salinity. The finish was long with notes of blackberry jam. (93 points) Trespass Vineyards Website

2006 Trespass Rendezvous – The nose showed ripe raspberry jam, molasses, pepper, spice cookie and a hint of undergrowth. On the palate, I found blueberry and dark chocolate with violet candies and a plush velvety mouthfeel. The finish was long with wild berries and cider mulling spices. (92 points) Trespass Vineyards Website

2006 EMH Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cat – The 2006 EMH vineyards, Black Cat, was on a whole new level from my previous tasting. Almost a year has passed, and this dark beauty has really come out of its shell. Upon pouring, the aromatics leapt from the glass and filled the room with a bouquet of sweet floral notes and dark fruits. With a swirl in the glass, I found blackberry, cherry and anise with notes of pepper and sage. The palate showed rich spicy black currant, cinnamon gram cracker and dark chocolate, yet also showed wonderful vibrancy and finesse. The finish went on and on for over a minute with a seductive mix of clove, cinnamon, star anise and cherry. (93 points) EMH Vineyards Website

2005 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District – The nose showed black currant, confectioners sugar, spice and a hint of green pepper. On the full-bodied palate, I found sweet raspberry jam and cola, which turned to sour cherry with an herbal quality. The finish showed dark red fruits which turned slightly sour as it faded away. (92 points) Cliff Lede Vineyards Website

2004 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve – The nose showed black currant, cinnamon stick, nutmeg, rosemary, dark brown sugar and whiffs of vanilla. On the palate, I found black cherry, dark chocolate and cola with zesty acidity and beautiful structure. The finish went on and on for over a minute. This wine was massive yet fresh and will easily improve for many years to come. (94 points) Robert Mondavi Website

2007 Sbragia Family Zinfandel Italo's Vineyard – The color of the 2007 Sbragia Family Zinfandel Italo's Vineyard, showed a brilliant ruby red. The nose opened fresh, showing a mix of wild berries, primarily blue but ever-changing with each sniff. A floral component came forward with time, along with a hint of undergrowth, sweet caramel and coffee bean, which added masses of depth. On the full, rich palate, I found candied blackberry and cola, playing a sweet & sour act and carrying this wine’s 14.5% alcohol flawlessly. The finish was fresh and long, showing dried cherries. (90 points) Sbragia Family Vineyards Website

2007 Ridge Geyserville – A beautiful display of rich blackberry fruit, dark chocolate and earthy slate dust. The palate was like velvet yet structured with dark chocolate-covered cherries and cedar. The wine showed remarkable balance and a gorgeous core of well-defined fruit. The finish was long with cherries and dark chocolate. Yum! (91 points) Ridge VIneyards Website

2006 Neyers Syrah Old Lakeville Road – The nose showed wild berries and cherry with undergrowth, dried herbs, and air-dried meats. On the palate, this wine showed smooth and velvety with dark fruits, spicy cinnamon and earth. The medium finish was rich, yet fresh. (91 points) Neyers Vineyards Website

La casa di Fernando

2011-05-21T12:59:00.001-04:00

In my line of work, not many people are willing to cook for you. It’s a sad result of a profession based on making people happy through food. The funny part is that I’ve been amazed by more home cooks than professional chefs in my life. There’s nothing like being in someone’s home and sampling a dish they made to please their guests, along with all the heart and soul that goes into it. I think people believe I’ll expect a culinary masterpiece, when in reality, my favorite foods consist of burgers, BLTs and a well-seasoned, medium-rare porterhouse steaks.

However, there are a few friends who have no problem putting on the chef hat and inviting me into their homes, and to them I am grateful. Fernando is one of those people. On my most recent visit, I was well fed with masses of food from his Argentine-style assado, which included spicy meatballs that would make my nonna shed a tear. An entire host of salads to whet the palate could be found throughout the table, as well as roasted vegetables and cheeses. Then there was the flan, which is an art I’ll leave to the experts like Fernando, who prepared it perfectly… And then there was the wine.

The tasting table in my cellar

You see, my friend Fernando, has what I would describe as a mature, balanced cellar. Something that I’ve been working very hard to create over the past five years and am only beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel (probably about five more years before I beginn reaping the benefits). What I mean by this is a wine cellar, built over time, where a good selection of whites, reds, early drinkers and bottles to mature are all stored. The best thing about a balanced cellar is that when you have company over, you can pull out a range of wines that would make, even the most experienced tasters, eyes light up. That’s exactly what Fernando did on this night.

The wines below are from a mix of different regions and styles. Each bottle was great in its unique way and most were entering maturity, with some upside potential, but very little baby fat. There are a number of gems in the mix below. Enjoy, and thanks to Fernando for the excellent meal.

On to the wines:

2006 Vie di Romans Friuli Isonzo Flors di Uis – The nose was amazingly fragrant and continued to pick up nuances as it sat in the glass. A bouquet of spring flowers, tart lemon, peach, orange skins and green apple dazzled the senses. On the palate, it showed a medium weight with a citrus zing, more floral notes and stone fruits. The finish was long with sour citrus fruits, yet mouthwatering and begging you to take another sip. (93 points)

2002 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese – The nose showed bacon fat and white flowers. On the palate, I found fresh cranberry, and pineapple with a soft yet vibrant feel on the tongue. The finish was at first sweet and then sour with hints of grapefruit. (88 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1990 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Valbuena 5° – The 1990 Vega-Sicilia wowed me with its rich yet elegant personality. The nose showed cherry preserves and cranberry with hints of clove, vanilla and burnt sugar. However, with how rich and young the nose seemed, there was an underlying earthiness and hint of musky animal fur that truly kept it interesting. On the palate, it was elegant, with a velvety feel on the tongue as flavors of rich red, then black fruits and dusty spices assaulted the senses. The finish was long and turned from juicy to sour as the fruit faded away. (96 points)

1994 Henschke Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon – The nose showed vibrant cranberry fruit, red beets and undergrowth in a big yet airy style. On the palate, it was massive and rich, yet still juicy with black fruits and spice. The finish was fresh and clung to the palate. (90 points)

1997 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva – The nose showed cherry, herbs, dusty potpourri and hints of blue cheese. On the palate, this wine was soft and mid-weight with zesty acidity and flavors of sour red fruits and salinity. The finish was slightly drying and still showed a good amount of structure for Chianti with 14 years on it. (89 points)

1997 Cabreo Il Borgo Toscana IGT – The nose showed rich cherry fruit, minerals, dried leaves and floral notes. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with dark chocolate, black currant, spices and hints of licorice. The medium-long finish showed fading dark fruits, broth and a bit of salinity. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1998 Fattoria Petrolo Galatrona Toscana IGT – The nose showed black currant, hints of toast and animal musk. On the palate, it was at first silky smooth but turned dry as this wine showed its still youthful structure. Rich, concentrated black fruits and spices attacked the senses and faded into a long finish. This wine came across as still needing a number of years before it could really show its true colors. (90 points)

1998 Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape – The nose showed blue and black fruits with meaty, peppery notes wrapped in shroud of vanilla. On the palate, it was rich with a core of zesty acidity that kept things interesting as dark chocolate, sweet spices and waxy red licorice filled the senses. The finish clung to the palate with dark fruits and spices. This bottle was almost too big for its own good but remained restrained enough to leave me with a very pleasing experience. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1999 Bodegas Mauro Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León Terreus Pago de Cueva Baja – The nose showed cranberry and plum sauce, with sweet spices and herbs. On the palate, it was velvety and made its presence known in a mix of full-bodied rich black fruit and spice-laden vibrant acidity. Black cherry, cinnamon and vanilla lingered into the long finish, which turned a little dry, but otherwise showed this wine has many years of life ahead of it. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1990 Chapoutier Cote-Rotie – The nose showed blackberry, citrus rind, minerals and hints of pepper. On the palate, it was soft, with a medium weight showing cherry, herbs and hints of salinity. The finish was medium-long and refreshing. (89 points)

Older Nebbiolo: Barolo, Barbaresco & Spanna

2011-05-09T15:19:00.002-04:00

There is one certainty which I came to understand very early in my wine drinking life: I love aged Nebbiolo. I could even say that I love aged wine in general, but Barolo and Barbaresco hold a very special place in my heart, a place that can’t be filled by any other substance on earth. Not everyone enjoys fine aged wine; it’s got to be in you—or maybe you’ve yet to have that one bottle that turns you into a believer. However, I’m convinced that once it happens, there is no going back.

This brings me to the tasting of “Old Nebbiolo”. The parameters were simple: any Nebbiolo-based wine from 1985 and before. Why 1985? For one thing, the chances are with each of these vintages that they have either reached their peak or would be just shy of achieving their full maturity. However, what’s more interesting is that these wines were produced before climate change made it easier to consistently bring Nebbiolo to full ripeness on the vine and at a time before anyone had heard of the modernist vs. traditionalist argument. For the most part, these are all wines which enjoyed long fermentations and aging in large neutral casks.

I often wonder what the Baroli of today will one day taste like, because so much has changed since these wines were made. The wines of today are no doubt cleaner, more focused and certainly easier to enjoy when young, but what will they taste like in 30 years? Only time will tell. Until then, we have these vintages of old to keep us happy and in love with what Nebbiolo is capable of in 25 to 30 years time. Tastings like this don’t come along every day, and as a regular taster of Barolo and Barbaresco, it’s nice to sit back from time to time and enjoy wines in their full maturity. It is pure indulgence.

To me, the bottles encompassed in the tasting notes below are all of exceptional character. If you can find them, buy them and relish in their perfect maturity. Most of them aren’t going to get any better with time and a few of them still have some tricks up their sleeves.

On to the wines:

1971 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Cavalieri del Tartufo Ovello – On the nose, gravel and soil notes lead to dried strawberry, tobacco and undergrowth. On the palate, an initial burst of acidity attacked the senses, giving this 40 year old Barbaresco lift and vibrancy as fading dark fruits and minerals caressed the senses. The finish showed eucalyptus and spice. I don’t see this wine getting any better, but it’s still highly enjoyable. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1974 Francesco Rinaldi e Figli Barolo – The 1974 Francesco Rinaldi showed its age with notes of beef broth, dried leaves, salinity and earth. On the palate, this wine was lean at first, as the beefy broth continued and was joined by faded red fruits and old barrel’ but with time in the glass, it began to turn sweeter and rounder with notes of brown sugar. The finish was remarkably long with hints of pipe tobacco and earth. This was a wine for a lover of old traditional Barolo, and although it may be a little over the hill, maybe even a little dirty, I still found much enjoyment in the glass. (87 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1974 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo – The 1974 Bartolo Mascarello was classic in every way that an aged Barolo should be. The nose showed dried roses, tar, tobacco and earth with a lively floral perfume. On the palate, it was vibrant with dried cherry, more tobacco and notes of copper. With time in the glass, the wine continued to open and gain in volume and sweetness. The long finish showed faded dry strawberry and a bit of tree bark. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1974 Vietti Barolo Rocche – What a pleasure it was to drink the 1974 Vietti Rocche. The nose showed floral undergrowth, fresh-turned soil with strawberry and, as time passed, a sweet, almost caramel note added outstanding complexities to the already beautiful bouquet. On the palate, it was juicy yet balanced and still showed youthful notes of fresh red berries, cinnamon and sweet floral notes. The finish swung toward the savory side as broth and brown sugar lingered for over 30 seconds. (94 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1978 Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbaresco Sorì Paitin – The earthy nose showed faded cherry fruit with eucalyptus, vine-ripening tomato and hints of sweet peas. On the palate, I found slightly bitter red fruits with plum skins and tobacco. The finish was fresh and still lively. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1978 Oddero Barolo – The 1978 Oddero Barolo was simply gorgeous and just entering its full maturity. After four hours opened in bottle, it began to show earthy mushroom, dried cherry, dusty minerals and roses on the nose. On the palate, it was vibrant and dark with lush red fruits, spice, tobacco and an acidic lift that added remarkable freshness that stayed into the long finish with plum and a bit of citrus rind. (94 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1985 Renato Ratti Barbaresco – The nose showed floral undergrowth with strawberry and spice. On the palate, it showed dried red berries with a dusting of minerals and earth, along with a fine structure that should keep it fresh for many years to come. The finish was drying with tannins that are still holding on to this wine’s red berry fruit. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1969 Antonio Vallana e Figlio Colline Novaresi Spanna Montalbano – The 1969 Vallana Spanna would be nearly impossible to guess as a wine with 40+ years on it. The nose was dark with moist earth and herbs, yet there was a vibrancy to the plumy fruit and spice that followed. On the palate, it was remarkably fresh as it caressed the senses with strawberry, mulling spice and herbs. The finish carried this wine home as red berries and earth lingered on the palate. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Other older Nebbiolo tasted this year:

1978 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco – This bottle opened with crushed fall leaves, sauté mushroom and sweet black cherry fruit. The color was ruby in the center with an orange rim. On the palate it showed perfectly resolved, as velvety dried cherry and light strawberry fruit caressed the senses with tobacco, a sweet tea middle-palate performance and a gracefully long red fruit finish. This bottle was all class and finesse. It was a very feminine Barolo at its peak. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1974 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Monfalletto – This bottle was popped and carefully poured immediately with a small amount decanted to remove sediment at the end. The color faded from red to amber and into an orange rim. On the nose, at first I found leather, green stems, cedar and dried flowers but as the wine opened, it became more and more fragrant as cinnamon, coca and dried cherries became prominent. It was a dream to sit and enjoy the bouquet alone. The palate was balanced and perfectly resolved, feeling like silk across the tongue with flavors of red fruit, mulling spices and herbal tea. It was extremely vibrant and fresh for such an old bottle of wine. The finish showed dried cranberry and lasted half a minute. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1971 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco – The nose showed dusty potpourri, charcoal, beef stock and slightly faded dried red fruits. On the palate, I found strawberry and cedar, but with time this wine opened further to reveal tobacco and darker, sweeter red fruit with a vibrant, round mouth-feel. The finish was subtle, but elegant, and left me wanting more. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

A big thanks goes out to Tolani Wine Restaurant for their hospitality and in helping me to make this tasting special. Tolani, on the Upper West Side of Manhattan, has certainly made an impact on me. The food is spectacular with a diverse menu from around the world that continues to impress me and a staff that is top notch. I don't remember the last time I enjoyed a meal so much from start to finish. Look for a full review shortly at What’s Cookin’ or at The V.I.P. Table.

For another perspective on this great tasting Doug Smith, a fellow taster, posted his notes here: Cellar Tracker.

Food and Wine in Winter 2011

2011-04-30T07:39:00.000-04:00

With a whirlwind of events, tastings and travels, I realized that it’s been quite some time since I sat down and thought about making mention of the food work I’ve had published and some of the killer wines that I’ve tasted in the last few months. February through April brought The V.I.P. Table a heavy workload and there’s much more to come. Also, I’d like to thank all of my readers who have allowed this small website to grow into a 3500+ monthly readership. I’m always open to comments and I welcome any opinions. So please feel free to drop me a line and let me know what you love or hate about The V.I.P. Table.

So on to “Food and Wine in Winter 2011”

Pumpkin Risotto

Nostalgia is a powerful tool in the chef’s arsenal. It’s a direct line to the hearts and minds of your guests. It's that smell from mama’s kitchen. It's that flavor, which will always remind you of home. Or that memory of togetherness around a family table, the food you ate and the happy memories you shared. Would it surprise you to know that nostalgia is a topic taught in culinary school? Well it is, and for very good reason because with nostalgia you can create a dish that will not only taste divine, but also speaks to the diner’s soul. That’s how pumpkin risotto ended up on my menu.

Read the full article and recipe: What’s Cookin’

Braised Pork Shoulder in Chianti Sauce

Braised Pork Shoulder in Chianti Sauces is amazing dish that will thrill your guests. The sauce balances richness with complex woodsy notes and vibrant acidity. It is transcendent, yet elegant and light on its feet. It’s one of those sauces that you feel could be poured over anything and never get boring. The pork is succulent, falls apart on the fork and nearly melts in your mouth.

Read the full article and recipe: What’s Cookin’

Calamari in Zimino

It's amazing how different traditional Italian food is from what most Americans grew up to believe it to be. The Sunday sauces and everything parmigiana that we grew up with are a far stretch from what you find throughout the majority of Italy. From north to south, the cuisine of Italia changes just as much as its geography, traditions and wines.

However, for the most part, one thing remains the same throughout Italy: the cuisine is based on simple recipes made great through the quality of the ingredients and the deft, passionate hand of the person who is making the dish. Calamari in Zimino is a perfect example of this.

Read the full article and recipe: What’s Cookin’

As for the wines, I don’t remember the last time that I had so many fantastic wines to choose from when writing an overview piece such as this. The wines below run the gambit of top shelf crowd pleasers to affordable daily drinkers; from Italy, Chile and the United States. There’s seriously something for everyone.

2009 Casa Silva Carménère Reserva - On the nose, I found blackberry, chalk dust, green bell pepper and manure. On the palate, it was big yet balanced, showing wild berries, more green pepper leading to a cough syrup like finish. Looking back on my notes, I feel as if these descriptors fail to do this wine justice. The fact is, it was highly enjoyable in a gripping and earthy way and an amazing value. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc Estate - The nose showed lemon with fresh cut grass, minerals and a bit of nuttiness. On the palate, this was mouth-filling with sour grapefruit, lime, minerals, and green apple. The finish was long with sour patch citrus fruits. Not only was this Sauvignon Blanc refreshing and full of varietal character, it is also an awesome value. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Larkmead Vineyards Firebelle - The nose showed black currant, cherry liquor, spice, brown sugar and a hint of fresh-turned soil. On the palate, it was velvety smooth and luxuriant as it filled the senses with flavors of blackberry jam, cherry wood and spice. The finish was exceptionally long with blackberry and currant fruit, yet fresh and begging for another sip. Larkmead has quickly become one of my favorite producers from the Napa Valley and one sip from these luxurious, yet refined wines will make a believer out of anyone. (94 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

2000 Arnaldo-Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni - The nose showed black cherries with vanilla sugar, cola and Christmas spices. On the palate, it was massive, bold, yet vibrant--balanced with a flavor profile that I could only described as dark chocolate covered cherries in sweet cream, yet bone dry. This wine was luxurious and smooth all the way to the long palate-coating finish. (95 points) Fine it: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Schäfer-Fröhlich Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs - The nose showed lemon, pear, spice and sage with hints of floral undergrowth. On the palate, this was beautifully balanced with piercing acidity, showing citrus, honey dew, minerals and stone. The finish was remarkably fresh with linger notes of grapefruit and herbs. (94 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

2006 Azienda Agricola Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT - The nose showed dusty bright cherry, leather and cinnamon. On the palate, I found focused red fruit, floral notes and savory roasted meats with impeccable balance and a level of fresh acidity that invites you to take another sip. The finish was fresh and long with sour red fruits. At this time, the Le Pergole Torte remains restrained by its fine structure but should be a dream of a wine in five plus years. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995: Barolo Retrospective

2011-04-18T23:02:00.001-04:00

When speaking of vintage streaks in Barolo circles, most enthusiasts think of 1996 through 2001. However, what is often overlooked is a vintage that was considered excellent upon release by growers and winemakers but quickly overshadowed by the structure of 1996 and the sex appeal of 1997. That vintage is 1995.

After four years of lackluster vintages (‘91 - ’94), Barolo growers were more than happy with the results of 1995. Generally speaking, the weather cooperated, with the exception of two isolated hailstorms, which caused uneven quality for some growers. However, the majority of the Langhe Barolo harvest, although small, produced big wines with the potential for long aging. The problem is that for how good 1995 was, it was quickly forgotten as vintage after excellent vintage flooded international markets.

What does this mean to today’s Barolo drinker? It means that 1995 Barolo can still be found and normally at good prices. The catch is that one must be careful to only buy from trusted sources since these bottles have had over 12 years on the open market, and the chances of having been mis-stored or abused during that time can be high. Luckily, there is a higher emphasis on sourcing well-stored wine among today’s best retailers.

In the end, a little known secret among long time Barolo collectors is that 1995 Barolo is worth the hunt. These are drinking now Baroli that show well-resolved tannins and masses of fruit balanced by a solid core of lively acidity.

Before I move to the wines, special thanks go out to i Trulli Restaurant in NYC for allowing me to host such a large tasting at a single table. The food at i Trulli is excellent and easily stands tall against the best Italian cuisine in NYC. There were 16 bottles in all, served blind, and in the end (with the exception of one corked and one slightly off bottle), all the wines were fabulous.

On to the wines:

1995 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana - The nose showed an initial burst of sour cranberry, which turned sweeter with air. As time passed in the glass, the cranberry turned to black cherry with a dusting of minerals, dark chocolate and menthol. On the palate, the Pajana lost momentum with its full-bodied, yet one dimensional showing of sour cherry and hints of holiday spice. The finish was staying with tart red fruits that clung to the palate. (88 points)

1995 Roagna Barolo La Rocca e La Pira - Initially, there seemed to be a dirty note to the nose, but with time in glass it came to life, showing undergrowth and floral notes with cinnamon and bright cherry fruit. On the palate, it was lush with sweet ripe strawberry and dusty cherry, minerals, and earth on a structured frame with lifting acidity. The finish showed a hint of drying tannin against focused fruit, giving the impression that this wine may be a few years short of its peak. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

1995 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Ca d'Morissio Riserva Monprivato - On the nose, I found plum with fresh turned soil, floral notes, cherry and savory herbs. On the palate, notes of menthol filled the senses and gave way to red fruits and cedar. It was structured, showing enough balance of tannin and fruit to expect a number of years before it hits its peak. The long finish gave way to sour red fruits and hints of fennel. (92 points)

1995 Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Vigna d'la Roul - The rather expressive nose showed animal musk, menthol, mushrooms, saw dust and savory broth. On the palate, it was lush with a full body giving way to flavors of ripe cherry, herbs and spice. The finish was long and staying, carrying spicy red fruits to the close. (89 points)

1995 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito - The nose showed dusty potpourri with bright cherry, cedar and spice box. The palate was firm, showing masses of structure, as rich cherry fruit countered by earthy clay and dusty minerals swept across the senses. The finish was long and revealed crushed red fruits as the wine’s tannins slowly faded away. It was the utter balance and sheer focus of fruit that truly blew me away when drinking the 1995 Vietti Lazzarito. (92 points)

1995 Conterno Fantino Barolo Sorì Ginestra - On the nose, I found dark spiced fruits with plum and hints of sweet vanilla sugar. The palate showed soft cherry with cedar in a feminine expression of Nebbiolo. The finish tapered off with notes of sweet herbal tea. (89 points)

1995 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc - The nose showed ripe strawberry with clove, sage and hint of vanilla, yet there were some underlying notes of dank wood which marred the experience. On the palate, it was voluptuous, with ripe cherry and sweet tobacco. The finish was medium long, but the fruit took on a hollow feeling and left me wanting a little something more. (88 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala - The nose showed cherry liquor with dusty brown sugar, yet the initial sweet character of this wine was immediately put in check by welcoming notes of fresh earth and broth. On the palate, it was feminine, as dried strawberry and hints of honeyed herbal tea washed across the senses, only to explode into a juicy pure expression of red fruits and minerals on the finish. (93 points)

Even though its not a Barolo, the Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano, was included and showed that Barbaresco from 1995 is also drinking beautifully and showing amazing quality.

1995 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano - The nose showed dusty minerals with floral undergrowth, copper penny and sour, soft cheeses. On the palate, it was soft, yet its balanced acidity kept it fresh with flavors of dark red fruit, licorice and cinnamon. The finish was long with red fruits and hints of cedar. (91 points)

1995 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - The nose showed dusty potpourri with fresh figs, plum and undergrowth. On the palate, I found cherries and hints of white mushroom, in a pretty but very light expression of Nebbiolo. The finish revealed its drying tannins with very little fruit in balance. (88 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero - The nose showed black olive tapanade with rosemary and sweet cherry. On the palate, it was as soft as velvet with herbs, meaty broth, cherry and black olive washing across the senses. The finish left me satisfied by this wine’s wonderful balance, inner sweetness and remarkably unique profile. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - The nose showed cranberry, meaty broth, stone, minerals and something I can only describe as blood sausage. On the palate, I found a rich and dark expression of strawberry fruit and mushrooms that turned more angular and structured into the close with earthy notes. The finish was long with staying fruit, yet lacked dimension. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia - The nose showed stemmed strawberries, cinnamon and roses with a slight vegetal note. On the palate, it was full-bodied with focused black cherry and tobacco. The finish turned to a pretty expression of sour red fruits. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba - The nose showed savory and meaty notes with cherry and hints of acetone. On the palate, it was full-bodied with sweet overripe fruits and notes of green vegetables in butter broth. The finish was long, carrying the same odd flavors of the palate. This bottle was likely off. (reserving score) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Marcarini Barolo Brunate - The nose showed dark red fruits and moist earth with sweet spice and cedar wood. On the palate, I found a full-bodied expression of ripe, sweet cherry, cedar and herbs against a balanced structure of tannin, leading to a pleasant finish that turned the sweet cherries to sour berries. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

For another perspective of this tasting, check out Greg dal Piaz, his review, a and great vintage synopsis at: Snooth!

Value reds from around the boot

2011-04-06T19:28:00.000-04:00

I’m always on a quest for new, exciting and affordable Italian wines. Italian wine can be quite a minefield in this price range and I’ve certainly tasted through my share of unremarkable bottles. However, each of the bottles below represents an excellent value for what’s in the glass. Plus, there’s something for everyone, from pure Italian typicity, as in the Burlotto Langhe Freisa, to an internationally styled wine in overdrive, like the Terre di Sava, Luccarelli Pazzia. So read on, and take your pick, as each of these is currently available at retail.

Veneto

The Veneto

Masi was one of the first Italian wine companies in my vocabulary. After tasting a young 2000 Masi Sergio Alighieri Amarone, I was convinced that this was a producer of the highest quality. Now many years later, and these wines from Verona continue to impress. Just last February, their 2005 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Costasera wow’d me at the Gambero Rosso tasting in NYC. But one cannot just always drink Amarone, and Masi has the answer; The Campofiorin. Masi Campofiorin consists of a mix of traditional Veronese grapes; but what’s different from this, and a typical Valpolicella, is that Masi double ferments the Campofiorin, with the second fermentation having semi-dried grapes added to the mix. However, this is not just Valpolicella in overdrive. Instead, it is rich, intriguing--yet vibrant and so obviously Italian. It’s a highly enjoyable glass of wine.

Piedmonte

Gigi Rosso, a winery in Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, is a new name to me but one that I’ll certainly look for again. Dolcetto has come a long way in recent years, with many producers aiming for more internationally styled wines that, unfortunately, come across as overdone and chewy. Luckily, there are still many producers making Dolcetto in the style I prefer, which is fresh, earthy, easy-drinking and with that textbook Italian acidity that makes them perfect with food… this is one of those wines.

2008 Gigi Rosso Dolcetto Diano d'Alba Moncolombetto – The nose showed woodland aromas with black wild berries, hints of wood and just the right amount of undergrowth. On the palate, I found a soft and juicy expression of blackberry fruit leading to florals and hints of bitters on the finish. This Dolcetto showed just the right amount of fruit bolstered by earth to keep it very interesting and highly drinkable. (90 points) Not yet available on WIne-Searcher!

Comm. G.B. Burlotto produces some of the most unique Baroli on the market today. Bottles that can age effortlessly for decades yet still show their roots and unique terrior. However, this house also produces a number of local varietal bottles, such as Barbera, Dolcetto and Freisa. Freisa is a varietal that we are seeing more and more often on the shelves of American wine shops, and I couldn’t be happier. These are intense wines, sometimes made in a slight fizzante style, but when made in a dry style where proper attention is paid in the vineyard and winery, can produce wines of remarkable depth that are far from just daily drinkers.

2007 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Langhe Freisa - The nose showed a mix of sweet and salty, as brown sugar and dark spice cookie with hints of Pecorino and violets wafted up from the glass. On the palate, acidity battled against bitters and resulted in wonderful fresh expression of brambly black berry and cinnamon. It turned a little bitter again toward the close. This is a very enjoyable wine, but I would suggest opening it with a meal to balance the bitters and acidity. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Abruzzo

Abruzzo

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo was first introduced to me by the affordable and always enjoyable Cantina Zaccagnini (which may very well have been included here had I tasted the most recent vintage). However, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is almost always enjoyable and certainly easily drinkable, but what it usually lacks is character. This wine had character in spades. The La Valentina Montepulciano, when popped and poured, seemed like just another good Italian sipper, but what really impressed me was how it evolved over the course of a few hours. It’s still difficult, in my opinion, to find Montepulciano d'Abruzzo that will thrill you. However, La Valentina proves that you can certainly find wines of the highest quality that will intrigue and impress at an excellent price point.

2005 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Spelt - The nose showed blueberries, clove, wood barrel and a hint of manure. On the palate, I found juicy cherry with a sour note, dark chocolate and a nice bitter bite that lasted into the finish. At first, this wine was easy-drinking, fun and pleasingly soft on the palate, but what was more interesting was how it picked up nuances and depth with time in the glass. (89 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Puglia

Puglia

Primitivo, often associated with American Zinfandel, but still in debate as to whether or not they are truly related, certainly makes a case for showing many similar qualities to Zinfandel. This bottle was a perfect example, as it showed the rich and brambly fruit and intensity. What I really enjoyed about it was how fresh the palate became, even after being coating in rich fruit. This is certainly a bottle to look for if your preference is massive, complex and palate-staining wine.

2007 Terre di Sava Primitivo di Manduria Luccarelli Pazzia – The nose on this wine was massive, with dark chocolate, sweet cherry liquor, blueberry syrup, chestnut and hints of caramel. However, on the palate, it managed to play a balancing act between power and finesse as flavors of black cherry with herbs and spice bombarded the taste buds, only to be washed away by balanced acidity. The finish was long in ripe, dark red fruits. I wouldn’t have guessed Italian, but it is certainly an attractive wine that will find many fans in the market of big, internationally styled wines. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Tuscany

Tuscany

Avignonesi is an estate that has become synonymous with Vino Nobile and produces a range of wines from easy-drinking Sangiovese to one of the most sought after Vin Santos in production: “Occhio di Pernice”. Of their Vino Nobile line, the houses flagship bottle, the “Riserva Grandi Annate.” is a top-shelf bottle that often receives critical praise and is highly sought after by collectors. However, in my opinion, the real gem is the affordable, easy drinking and entry level Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

2007 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - This wine showed a very internationally styled bouquet, with aromas of cherry, wild berry, cinnamon sugar and cacao powder rising from the glass. With time, the sweetshop aromas backed off and allowed spice and floral undergrowth to come forward. On the palate, I found red berries and clove with a hint of sweetness but very fresh through the long juicy finish. This wine may not have shown its Italian roots very well, but it was enjoyable in a new world kind of way. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Piaggia has quickly become one of my favorite producers in Tuscany. They can be found in the Carmignano growing area, with wines that easily give the best Chianti a run for it’s money. The 2007 Il Sasso was one of my wines of the year in 2010. The 2007, takes all the lush fruit and glamour of the 2006, but adds a brooding structure that will likely allow it to drink well for over a decade. It is a beautiful wine at an amazing price.

2007 Piaggia Carmignano Il Sasso - The nose showed cherry and herbs with undergrowth and a hint of new oak. The palate showed a medium body but with silky elegance and flavors of cherry, pomegranate and dark chocolate, with a slight austerity. The finish was long yet fresh with silky tannin. This bottle was feminine yet muscular and should drink even better after being in the cellar for a few more years. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

What constitutes value? Is it a dollar amount or a comparison of what’s in the glass versus what tariff you pay? I would argue it’s the latter, and in the case of the 2000 Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio, I believe its value is absolute. I have always been a fan of Il Poggio, which is a long-lived wine that is periodically released by the winery as a “library wine” and can often command prices of $100 and up (way up). But in the case of the 2000 vintage, this wine is already showing remarkable nuance and soft resolved tannin against plush fruit, and at a price of $42, it’s a remarkable value.

2000 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio – The nose showed dark vibrant red fruits with earth, minerals, spice, cocoa, old wood and a savory baked butter crust quality. On the palate, I found lush ripe strawberry, mushroom and leather with beautiful balance and a full body. The finish was long with red fruit and spice that went on and on. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Producer Spotlight: G.D. Vajra

2011-03-21T06:17:00.001-04:00

A couple of terms I’ve often heard in Italian wine circles, “Buy the producer, not the vintage.” or “If you want to find a good Barbera or Dolcetto, look to the producer of a good Barolo.” In this case, G.D. Vajra applies to both. Only a year ago, the name G.D. Vajra was nothing more to me than another producer of Barolo making wine in the Langhe with a single vineyard bottle coming from Bricco Viole vineyard.

However, since that time, my head has been turned. It started with a review from Antonio Galloni (Wine Advocate), of the 2006 G.D. Vajra Freisa, which he scored 95 points. To me, it was the challenge of tasting a Freisa (a generally good red that remains obscure outside of Italophile circles) that could possibly score 95 points. In the end, the bottle was open, glasses poured and emptied--and I sat speechless, thinking about how utterly enjoyable the wine was. Following this experience, I realized that I had to taste more wines from this producer.

G.D. Vajra is no newcomer to Barolo; in fact, Aldo and Milena Vaira have been making notable wines since the early eighties. However, it has only been in the last few years that these wines have truly started to catch on here in the States. They are admittedly traditional in style, yet each of their wines seem to have such purity of fruit and notable elegance that it’s hard to imagine exactly how they’ve achieved such a unique style. Whatever it may be, it’s obvious to me that the fruits that go into these wines are of the highest quality, and that great attention is paid in making sure it’s transparent to the taster.

What’s more, after speaking with Giuseppe Vaira, Aldo’s son, the most apparent thing to me is that, this family of winemakers has a level of intense passion that is infectious. It’s a passion for the vines, the soil and the wine that shines through as Giuseppe speaks about this beautiful set of releases. I would recommend each of the wines below as perfect examples of their kind.

On to the notes:

2009 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba – The nose showed focused blackberry fruit with spice, floral notes and wood tones. On the palate, this showed vibrant acidity with more blackberry and hints of citrus, leading to a clean fruity finish that provided those token Dolcetto bitters that I have grown to love. (89 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2008 G.D. Vajra Barbera d'Alba – The nose showed gorgeous red fruits, earth and stems. On the palate, I experienced intense ripe red berries with hints of cedar, turning to sour cherry on the finish. This wine was so pure and honest, as the quality of the fruit showed through more than anything else. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2009 G.D. Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo – The nose showed bright florals and cranberry with menthol and hints of wood. On the palate, this wine’s feminine structure and zesty acidity made for a lifting, airy expression with pure sour cherry. The finish was fresh and palate-cleansing. This is a beautiful, young Nebbiolo that can be sipped for enjoyment but also the perfect companion for food. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2007 G.D. Vajra Langhe Freisa Kyè - The nose showed blueberries and cherries dusted in confectioners sugar with forest notes and holiday spice. On the palate, a wave of concentration was washed down by vibrant acidity, leaving a slightly bitter finish. Rich blackberry flavors and tealeaves filled out the palate, and the finish showed an interesting spiced orange note. This may need time to integrate a little, but there's serious potential in the bottle and should be on the list of any serious Italian wine lover. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2006 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe - The nose showed dusty black cherry, allspice, rock dust and hints on menthol. On the palate, I found wild red berries, earth, green olive and crushed flower petals with teaming acidity and a slight sour profile. The finish showed cedar and leather, but unlike most Barolo of its age, no overwhelming tannin was present. This may not be a Barolo for the ages, but it is very enjoyable now. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2005 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole – The nose of the Bricco delle Viole was elegant and classy, as red wild berries, roses, wood and spice aromas wafted up from the glass. On the palate, I found enveloping red fruit restrained behind a firm feminine structure. The finish coated the palate in silky tannin. From the nose alone, this bottle shows a bright future. (94 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2009 G.D. Vajra Moscato d'Asti – The nose showed pear, honeydew and hints of citrus. On the palate, I found plush, sweet apple in a mouth-filling yet beautifully fresh expression of Moscato. The finish showed hints of lime and a lingering refreshing sweetness. (89 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Values in Barolo & Barbaresco? Absolutely.

2011-03-14T19:57:00.001-04:00

Is there value in Barolo and Barbaresco? It’s a very good question and one that I’ve been asked often. My immediate answer is… It depends on your definition of value. Why? Because Barolo has become the victim of its own marketing. The wine that’s been touted “The wine of kings, the king of wine” is something that many people seek out when they know they love Italian wine and would like to know what the “king of wines” tastes like. The problem is that the average consumer considers anything over $25 to have left the realm of value, and the average Barolo costs $45 and up into $100+.

Baroli from $25 - $40 a bottle.

Does this mean that you can’t find good bottles under that price range? Absolutely not. However, if you are looking for value in Barolo and Barbaresco, then it’s imperative that you make educated decisions because there are many bottles of cheap ($25-$35) Barolo littering the shelves of your average Wine and Liquor store that are not worth your time. However, all the notes below are from bottles costing between $25 and $45, and yes, they are very good, and yes, they are a value.

I can also assure you that it is truly worth seeking out a good bottle of affordable Barolo or Barbaresco. I’m a perfect example, as I’m truly infatuated with all wine made from Nebbiolo (the grape that makes Barolo and Barbaresco), and I would have never known how much I love these wines if I didn’t go through the process of exploration and sometimes paying a little more than average for a bottle of wine. The worst part is that I didn’t have anyone to guide me through this exploration.

So read these notes and pick a bottle to search for. Open it one night and let it breath in the bottle for a couple of hours before you pour the first glass. Enjoy it over dinner or over the course of an evening. Your first glass may be wonderful and your last glass may be amazing; that’s the magic of Nebbiolo.

On to the notes:

2005 Giovanni Viberti Barolo Buon Padre - The nose showed classic notes of cherry, roses, forest floor and tar, with a whiff of truffle. On the palate, this was savory with cherry and leather on a light, elegant frame. The finish was dry and youthful with a hint of old wood. This affordable Barolo is easily worth the tariff, and the nose alone is a gorgeous, feminine expression of Nebbiolo. (90+ points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2006 Vietti Barolo Castiglione - The nose showed strawberry, anise, coconut and vanilla with a hint of lead pencil. On the palate, I found dusty cranberry and a hint of wood. The palate was rich with tones of darker fruit as it worked its way across the tongue. The finish showed a little rough tannin with dry red fruits. This wine is young, but not painfully so, and with a little air, it showed the darker and richer tones of Nebbiolo. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2007 Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbaresco Serra - Upon first pour, the nose showed roasted chestnut, which blew off quickly to reveal a gorgeous bouquet of cherry, roses, animal musk and blood orange. On the palate, I found red berries and cedar that turned spicy with time in the glass. This wine was full-bodied and incredibly silky but turned very tannic on the young medium-long finish. I'll look forward to checking in on this Barbaresco in eight to ten years’ time. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2006 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco - The 2006 Produttori del Barbaresco Normale was fantastic for a young Nebbiolo. It was a textbook example with elegant red fruits, roses and tobacco on the nose. There was black cherry on the palate, as this showed to be very young, yet highly enjoyable, with a fresh balance of acidity and a big tannic shutdown on the finish. I will buy this wine by the case. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Okay, okay, okay, so this is not Barolo or Barbaresco, but it is made from Nebbiolo in Piedmont, and it is a great bottle of wine. I didn’t even intend to include it here but was so thoroughly impressed by it that I felt it was my duty to share it with my readers... Also, I notice Wine-Searcher doesn't list it, but this next bottle can also be found at Grapes: The Wine Company

2006 Cantina dei Produttori Carema Nebbiolo di Carema Riserva - On the nose, this wine showed strawberry, musk and earth with hints of cinnamon and ginger in a beautiful feminine expression of Nebbiolo. On the palate, I found focused red berry fruit with savory mushroom and hints of salinity. The palate started tight and focused but turned full and expansive with air. The finish was long with berry fruit and wonderfully fresh. This wine is a great early-drinking Carema. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

The Wines of Willi Schaefer

2011-03-06T22:59:00.000-05:00

My exploration of German wines and Riesling in particular has led me to a number of exciting experiences. The more I taste these wines, submerge myself in the history of the producers and geography of the vineyards, the more I come to realize that Riesling will always find a place in my cellar. The idea that I have never taken the time to explore this region before seems ludicrous to me now. I am a convert to the love of Riesling.

As I continue my journey, poking and prodding willing retailers and reading the work of great bloggers and writers, certain standards emerge. Such as, while A.J. Adams is often referred to as the exciting newcomer of German Riesling, Willi Schaefer is the gold standard and offers well-priced, consistently excellent Rieslings.

Willi Schaefer is a small estate located in the commune of Bernkasel-Graach, of the Middle-Mosel. Willi, and his son Christof, have holdings in the Graacher Domprobst and Himmelreich vineyards, as well as Wehlener Sonnenuhr. The wines are known to be highly enjoyable in their youth, as well as aging beautifully in the cellar. They are also known for disappearing quickly off retailer’s shelves, as this is a producer who’s been turning out stellar wines longer than most of us have been old enough to drink them. That’s not to say it’s impossible, especially in today’s world of the Internet.

A great selection of Riesling at: Crush

Each of the wines below are of exceptional quality and provide great value. These are wines that will excite your palate and wow your guests. Further, if it’s mature Riesling that you love, the Kabinett and the Spätlese will do fine in your cellar. Lastly, keep your eyes open for the 2009 Mosel Himmelreich Grosses Gewachs from Willi Schaefer. This is one of Schaefer’s dry Rieslings, which my sources tell me, is amazing.

On to the notes:

2009 Willi Schaefer Riesling – The nose showed honeysuckle, white cherries, wax and a light citrus spritz. On the palate, I found pineapple, which went from sweet to sour as it washed across the tongue into a slightly short yet highly enjoyable finish. (88 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2009 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett – The nose on the Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett was less ripe but much more finessed than the regular Riesling. It showed pear, lemon custard and slate stone. On the palate, I found peach and pineapple with tongue-curling acidity balanced by a hint of sweetness. The finish was elegant and long with citrus notes. (90 points) Find it: Wine Searcher

2009 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese – The nose showed grapefruit, slate dust, floral stems and hints of coconut. On the palate, I found a gorgeous balance of sweet verse acid with honey, minerals and light yet mouth-filling lemon. The finish was long and mouthwatering with intense citrus on the mid-palate. This is a nice step up from the Kabinett and an amazing value. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

1990: Barolo Retrospective

2011-03-01T21:02:00.002-05:00

Those who know and love mature Barolo sometimes wait decades to finally open a bottle from their cellar. We patiently watch as the producers we know and single vineyard bottling we adore slowly collect dust until the day that someone gives us an excuse to pull that cork. Usually it’s a good, trusted friend or a professional critic that waxes poetic on how a vintage has started to drink well. Whatever the reason may be, what I know is this: when a vintage of Barolo reaches maturity, a small part inside of each Barolo collector blossoms with joy.

Paprika Restaurant, 110 St. Marks Place
The perfect location for our tasting.
Warm, inviting, and specializing in
traditional Italian cuisine.
Paprika Website

However, not every Barolo enthusiast agrees on what vintages are excellent or just good. The two most often heard vintage descriptions are classic and ripe. Classic describes, a vintage where temperate swings of hot and cold have found that perfect yin yang that gave the grapes great concentration mixed with a perfect level of acidity and well-defined aromatics. Where ripe, refers to an abundant year where the heat of the vintage sped the grapes to maturity too fast and often results in high concentration, low acid and often, high alcohol. Many often wonder about the aging potential of ripe vintages (the 2000 Barolo vintage comes to mind). The reality is, when taking global warming into consideration, that most vintages today would have been considered ripe twenty years ago. I guess we can argue that today’s producers are better skilled when dealing with today’s climate… but then again, 1990 was a ripe vintage.

Barolo from 1990 is certainly not as classic as 1989. It’s nowhere near as structured as 1996. However, 1990 Barolo is drinking beautifully and you may be able to argue that it’s not classic, but no one can convince me that isn’t an absolutely wonderful vintage that’s full of gorgeous bottles of Barolo that will give many more years of ageability and drinking. It’s a dark and mysterious vintage for Barolo that’s seductive on the nose with its rich fruit mixed with stunning aromatics. Most of these are like velvet on the palate with spicy dark wood tones and an array of forest and earth notes. In the end, it’s a vintage to seek out that will not disappoint.

On to the notes:

1990 Conterno Fantino Barolo Sori Ginestra - The nose showed honeyed tea, cocoa and dusty spiced cherries. On the palate, I found rich, ripe strawberry with earth and minerals. This wine was elegant and beautifully resolved but showed a bit more of its age than I had expected. The finish was long and fresh. (90 points)

1990 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Riserva - Deep, dark red fruit wafted up from the glass, followed by roses and undergrowth. As I explored further, the dark fruit turned to dusty black cherry as floral notes and a bit of iodine filled out the nose. To breath this in was like lying in a bed of spring flowers after a sun shower with fingers stained in sweet cherry juice. On the palate, the fruit was focused, as sour strawberry led to minerals and green pepper, driven by vibrant, coursing acidity that balanced out the massive structure of this wine. The finish showed like a fresh young wine with earth and red fruits against silky tannin. (96 points)

1990 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - In a word, classic. The nose of the Barolo Mascarello showed focused red fruit with tobacco, florist shop, old parchment and hints of faded cinnamon. On the palate, this was silky smooth with crushed red berries and vibrant acidity that lent a cool, linger airiness that was almost menthol but not quite. The finish played a sweet and sour fruit act on the tongue and red fruit slowly faded from perception. Classic. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

1990 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia - The nose was utterly explosive and captivating as earthy tobacco and tar with raspberry wafted up from the glass. With further exploration, musky notes with roses and a hint of black olive tempted the senses. On the palate, this wine showed its rich yet massive structure with dark ripe strawberry, tar, savory broth, graphite and lead fading to a long staying finish. This wine is drinking beautifully yet should continue to improve for many years. It’s absolutely stunning. (96 points)

1990 Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello (from magnum) - On the nose, I found overripe red fruits with musk, dark chocolate, licorice and tobacco. On the palate this wine was at first lean but gained massive amounts of volume in the mouth, showing tea leaf and spiced dried cherry but turning slightly chewy into the sweet finish. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero - The nose showed a very feminine expression of elegant, dark red fruit, spices, roses and plum skin. On the palate, I found sweet, round cherry that somehow came across as light on its feet but structured. This wine lacked some of the stuffing that was found through most of the wines tasted on this night, yet it was appealing in a very restrained and feminine manner. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

1990 Vietti Barolo Villero Riserva - The Vietti Villero Riserva was a beast of a wine that successfully walked the tightrope between rich concentrated fruit and an earthy, animal expression. The nose show honeyed herbal tea and ripe sliced fig, earthy mushrooms and tar. On the palate, this wine was bursting at the seams with massive dark red fruits, followed by honey, earth and tealeaf. It showed an amazing concentration of fruit without ever becoming tiring or chewy; instead it finished elegant and long. (94 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

1990 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - The Monprivato was earthy in a way that only a true Barolo or Burgundy lover can understand. The nose showed fresh turned soil with roses and savory brown sauce. On the palate, I found sour red fruit, verging on cranberry, with leather and tealeaf, but as the wine matured in the glass, the fruit turned darker and sweeter with hints of violet candy and spice. The finish was long with red fruits and minerals. (93 points)

1990 Brovia Monprivato – The nose showed very closed with hints of red fruit pushing to the fore but little else. On the palate, I found sour cream and red fruits but with a turbulent level of acidity that ultimately left me wondering if this bottle was somehow flawed. (No Score) Find it: Wine-Searcher

1990 Bruno Giacosa Falletto Riserva – The nose showed dark red fruits with clay, earth, roasted nuts and hints of green peas. On the palate, I found sweet raspberry with spice, wood and a remarkable balance of elegance and concentration. This wine showed young yet still highly enjoyable. If it wasn’t paired against the Vigna Rionda, its qualities may have shown brighter. (93 points)

1990 Bruno Giacosa Collina Rionda Barolo Riserva (My wine of the night)

What a wine, a wine that you spend years thinking about when reading other tasters’ notes. You stare at the pictures and read through their experiences. You wonder if there's any chance that the wine could really be worth all the hype and poetry waxed upon it. How could a bottle really be worth such a price, you ask. Then the day comes that you finally taste it…and it's magical. It's a paradigm shift of sorts. I've had this happen with Quintarelli and now, I've added Bruno Giacosa's 1990 Collina Rionda Barolo Riserva to that list.

The 1990 Bruno Giacosa Collina Rionda Barolo Riserva was everything I ever wanted in a glass of Barolo. It was sweet yet sour, earthy yet fruity and rich yet with razor-like focus. The nose showed masses of ripe red berries with hot dried spices, gravelly moist earth, mushroom and hints of green stems. On the palate, this showed silky, sweet, ripe strawberry yet it also had a savory warmth, full with earth, menthol and leather strap on a beautifully structured frame. It was amazing how young the Collina Rionda seemed as silky tannin washed across the palate and soothed me into a long, seductive finish that begged for the next sip. (98 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Related Links:
For a great Italian meal or vino: Paprika Restaurant
For another take on this fine evening: Greg dal Piaz on Snooth & The Fine Wine Geek